Dog Vocabulary
The March 08 issue of National Geographic discusses the fascinating and controversial subject of animal intelligence. Part of this article discusses dogs’ ability to learn and identify objects by name, and one border collie has a vocabulary of over 300 words!
Any dog is capable of learning over 50 commands with proper guidance, although some stubborn breeds need more time and effort to reach this number. How many words does your dog understand? Below are 25 useful commands to teach your dog:
- “Dog’s name”
- “Good boy/girl”
- “No, phooey, tsh” – any stop command
- “Sit”
- “Stay”
- “Down” – means lay down, not get down
- “Heel” – walk by your side
- “Come, here” – this takes about a year to train
- “Kennel, crate, bed”
- “Quiet, hush, enough”
- “Off” – get off the counter or furniture
- “Leave it”
- “Place” – select a place for them to relax and stay
- “Potty, hurry up, do it”
- “Hup, up, load” – invites them into or onto a place
- “Let’s go” – a causal walk with no pulling
- “Stand” – your groomer and Vet will love this
- “Wait” – temporary stay
- “Give paw” – good for wiping wet paws
- “No bite, Stop”
- “Free dog, okay, relax” – to release your dog from working
- “Gentle, easy, take it” – dog can take food or toy
- “Fetch, get it”
- “Out, Give, drop, release”
- “Find your truck/go for a ride” – may save your dog’s live when loose
Training Tips: Positive reinforcement increases a dog’s desire to repeat the action. Use a variety of rewards like praise and toys, not just food. Repeating a command does NOT make your dog learn faster. 1 command = 1 action. Be fair. Be patient. Be consistent. End your training session with an easy exercise and a special reward.
2 Common Mistakes: Poor timing and reinforcing the wrong action. Example: You issue a “sit” command, your dog sits, but then slides into a “down” position. You say “good boy.” You taught your dog to lay down with a sit command. The proper way is to say “sit” when his butt touches the floor. If or when he moves, you have less than 1 second to let him know he made a mistake with a verbal correction (No, Eh, Phooey). In order for Praise or Punishment to be effective, it must be done within seconds of the action!
Training Success: An action must be paired with a command for an association to be established. The average dog will learn a new command after repeating the pairing process 30-50 times, but it may take a stubborn dog 100 times to make the association.
General Advice: Do not get a border collie unless you are willing to devote an extreme amount time and energy to training. If not properly stimulated, a smart dog will become frustrated and destructive. The easiest dog to train is NOT the smartest dog…it is the WILLING one.
2008 Written by Susan Jakobs: CPDT-KA. Owner of Dog Builders, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers and Therapy Dog, Inc.
Copyright 2006 by Dog Builders. This article or any part of this article may not be reproduced in any form or circulated without author’s permission. We post articles to educate the public and would allow the use of printed materials for that purpose. If you want to use any publications, you must contact us first. Materials cannot be edited or changed and must be used in whole, including our logo.
Separation Anxiety
Does your dog suffer from separation anxiety?
Separation anxiety is the second most common behavior problem, aggression ranks first. Veterinarians report that about 14% of their clients have problems with this disease. Some dogs exhibit mild behaviors (panting, whining, or barking), and others demonstrate more sever actions (self-mutilation, defecation, or chewing).
In difficult cases, owners must understand that their dog cannot help what he is doing. Any form of punishment will not be effective and can make the problem worse. Dogs with mild symptoms can be helped with the following techniques (9 and 10 are advanced behavior modification techniques):
1) Ignore attention-seeking behaviors. Only give attention on your terms, not because he demands it.
2) Only offer attention and rewards when your dog is relaxed and calm. This will reinforce calm behavior.
3) Do not encourage anxiety by talking in a sad voice or worrying too much about your dog when you leave. Dogs feed off their owner’s anxiety.
4) Adopt the “nothing in life is free” philosophy. The dog must respond to your commands before anything positive is provided in return.
5) Ignore your dog before leaving and upon returning. When your dog has quieted down, praise him.
6) Discourage attachment: Do not encourage your dog to be constantly by your side. When you watch television, make your dog lay down on the other side of the room.
7) Provide good leadership to give your dog a sense of order and structure. Build your dog’s confidence by playing games, trick training, and obedience.
8) Use counter-conditioning: Train your dog to exercise an obedience command or a trick (sit/down/shake) when leaving. Alternate your reward system; use treats, praise, and touch) so you don’t get stuck in a new pattern.
9) Change your departure routine. At random times, go through rituals of leaving, but don’t leave, or leave then come back. Put on cologne, shower, dress in work clothes, pick up your keys, then sit and read the paper. This technique (habituation) will reduce your dog’s reaction to your departure routine. If you pack and unpack a suitcase every day for 10 days, your dog will no longer react to the ritual. Break existing patterns by presenting them without leaving is crucial for rehabilitation.
10) Graduated planned departures: After a week of breaking pattern behavior, leave for two minutes, then increase it to five minutes, and so on, only increasing the length of absence if no anxiety is exhibited. This process can take weeks and or months to make a difference.
A thorough medical and behavioral consult needs to done to determine if your dog is an extreme case. Clomipramine is currently the only FDA drug that is approved for use with canines. For sever cases, studies show that the combination of a behavior modification program and medication increase the success of rehabilitating dogs afflicted with separation anxiety.
2008 Written by Dog Builders
Copyright 2006 by Dog Builders. This article or any part of this article may not be reproduced in any form or circulated without author’s permission. We post articles to educate the public and would allow the use of printed materials for that purpose. If you want to use any publications, you must contact us first. Materials cannot be edited or changed and must be used in whole, including our logo.
Puppy Biting
Puppy Biting
Puppy teeth are razor sharp and the teething stage is painful—for everyone. Puppies should have their adult teeth by 7 months; biting after 8 months is protest biting or a learned behavior. Research shows that a major contributor to excessive puppy biting is early adoption (before 8 weeks).
The Illinois Animal Control Act 605/2.2 states that the mother and her puppies must remain together until the age of 8 weeks. A puppy learns bite inhibition from his mother and littermates. If a pup bites too hard or is too bossy, the other pups will let him know very quickly. These lessons sound violent, but they are crucial for proper development. Although puppies learn restraint better from their peers, the hints below should help:
- Redirection – offer proper toys to chew. No old socks or shoes. A puppy cannot tell the difference between new and old. Avoid items that are easily destroyed.
- If your puppy bites while you are petting, quietly remove your attention from him. This has to be done many times before the pup realizes he is being ignored. Once he relaxes, pet him again, etcetera.
- Use positive reinforcement (“good dog”) when your puppy chews the right toy and say “no”, when he selects the wrong object. Always offer the right option to reinforce what you want.
- Use a chewing deterrent (Grannick’s Apple Bitter). First, give your pup a taste of it several times for a few days to create a negative association between the bad taste and the bad smell. Then spray it on your hands, furniture, or the leash to deter the biting.
- No tug of war or slapping games.
- When your puppy is in a rowdy, biting mood, use the crate for a “positive” time out.
- Set up a play date with other puppies.
- Teach your puppy how to accept touch (brushing, nail trim, teeth brushing).
- When your puppy bites, scream “OW!” in a high-pitched voice. Then ignore him.
- If your puppy doesn’t get the message, use a leash correction or a little scruff and scold him in a low-toned voice (sound evil). Never grab, strike, or pinch his nose as this will make your puppy not trust hands.
Puppies that won’t stop or get wilder after a correction have a strong defense response and will continue to snap or snarl. The “scruff and cuff” and “restraint” methods work for this type of dog, BUT proper timing and delivery are vital for these exercises. It is important to remain calm and quiet while working with this type of puppy. Poor training will make the problem worse and you may be bit.
Consult a professional before attempting any method that is unknown to you. Once a dog is over a year, he should not be mouthy or biting. Don’t make excuses for your biter, get help.
2008 Written by Dog Builders
Copyright 2006 by Dog Builders. This article or any part of this article may not be reproduced in any form or circulated without author’s permission. We post articles to educate the public and would allow the use of printed materials for that purpose. If you want to use any publications, you must contact us first. Materials cannot be edited or changed and must be used in whole, including our logo.
House Training 101
Housetraining your Puppy
Understanding what basic principles apply and why things work will reduce frustration and increase success. Dogs are born with the instinct to keep their ‘den’ clean, which is why a crate works so well for house training. The #1 tool for house training is a crate, portable kennel, or puppy carrier. Consider the crate a ‘management tool,’ not a lifetime sentence. Once your dog proves that he will not destroy furniture or potty in the house when you are asleep or gone, you no longer need the crate. This may take 1-2 years, some dogs will always need to be crated, and some are lost without their crate.
We prefer plastic crates as they are more durable and dogs are less likely to escape. Some people may choose to use papers, pads, or a litter box. This works well for people who live in a high rise, or have dogs with allergies. Starting with puppy pads then trying to teach your pup to soil outside creates an unnecessary step and will delay housetraining.
1. Be realistic about the length of time your dog can control his bowel or bladder. Base this expectation on age and physical ability. A younger dog cannot control his bodily functions for the same amount of time as a more mature dog. A reasonable amount of time can be calculated by adding one hour to your pup’s age in months (i.e., a healthy 2-month old should be able hold it for 3 hours etc.). Expecting more is not fair.
2. A sick dog may have accidents unwillingly. Rule out worms or a bladder infection. A visit to the vet is always recommended.
3. Define their bed or den. We recommend a crate to mimic our dog’s instinct to den. The average puppy/dog that is mentally and physically sound will not soil in their bed as long as they have opportunity to do it outside. Some people think using a crate is horrible, but in reality, the crate becomes their own personal space within your home where they feel safe.
4. Supervision. Supervise your puppy until he understands the rules. It is our job as the pack leader to teach our puppy/dog these rules. Eliminate or minimize the opportunity for your dog to soil in your house. In my house, a puppy is either in the crate, leashed to me, outside (supervised), or having supervised playtime.
5. A puppy’s world is relative to his size. If a puppy’s crate is too big, he may soil in it. A puppy should just be able to stand up and turn around in their crate. If you selected a large breed, you will have to buy or borrow many sizes as they grow.
Place the crate in a social location, because they like to be where the action is. The kitchen works well and ‘accidents’ are easy to clean up. Move the crate into rooms where you hang out to make your puppy feel like part of the family. At night, if your puppy does not fuss in the crate, it is okay to move the crate to a bedroom, but leaving him in the kitchen will teach him how to be alone.
Crate rules:
Do not place the crate in direct sun
No bedding – towels encourage urinating, your puppy may eat the bedding
Remove any collars or fit the collar properly so it can’t catch on anything
No water bottle – this sabotages your efforts
Toys should be indestructible (Kongs are great)
Do not allow children to poke or stare at the puppy in the crate
NEVER use the crate as punishment or to isolate them
If you control what goes in (food and water), you can control what comes out!
Introducing the crate: your puppy should be hungry, his bladder should be empty, use tiny, soft treats (½ of a Pounce cat treat). Choose a command like ‘go to crate’ or ‘kennel.’ Put a toy and 1-2 treats in the back of the crate. Sit on the floor next to the crate with the door open, and play with your puppy. Take a treat or a squeaky toy to lure your puppy near the crate. When puppy is near the crate, praise and offer a treat. Take a second treat, lure him near the crate again, and toss the treat in the crate. A hungry puppy will go into the crate after the treat.
When your puppy enters the crate, say ‘your kenneling command,’ and close the door. Make this a quiet, calm exercise. Allow him to stay in the crate for 2 minutes. Gently say ‘good boy’ if he remains calm. If he fusses, sharply say ‘no’ and turn away. Do not reward bad behavior by letting him out. After 2 minutes, you can let your puppy out, but ONLY when he is quiet. Repeat the exercise. If you always associate the crate with food, your dog will LOVE the crate.
A schedule will speed up housetraining, because dogs are easily pattern trained. Create a chart and assign duties for family members. The following schedule is for a 2-month-old puppy. As puppies grow, free time increases and crate time decreases.
Morning: Take puppy from crate to potty spot. Feed, water puppy. Take pup to potty spot. After puppy has eliminated, enjoy your pup. After playtime/walk, allow to potty, return him to the crate.
Mid morning: Take puppy from crate to potty spot, offer water, play or walk. Return to crate.
Afternoon: Take puppy from crate to potty spot. Feed/water puppy. Take pup to potty spot. After puppy has eliminated, enjoy your pup. Return him to the crate.
Mid afternoon: Take puppy from crate to potty spot, offer water, play or walk, Return to crate.
Dinnertime: Take puppy from crate to potty spot. Feed and water puppy then take puppy out to potty spot. After puppy has eliminated, enjoy puppy playtime. After playtime or a walk, allow to potty, return him to the crate.
Bedtime: Take pup out to potty before bed.
Middle of the night: If he whines in the middle of the night, take him outside. No playtime and keep your energy low.
Create a potty spot and learn your pup’s potty signals. Some dogs have a distinctive whine or bark, some dog stare at the door. Most pups sniff and circle before they poop. If you see any these behaviors inside, pick them up and race to the potty spot. I recommend using a leash to keep them there until they eliminate.
When your pup has an accident inside, rubbing your dog’s nose in it or making him sit by the mess does not teach them anything. The ONLY time you can correct for an accident is if you catch him in the act. If you catch your pup eliminating inside, startle him with a loud “NO’ then quickly and calmly pick him up and take him to the potty spot.
Rules:
- Be consistent with the CRATE to OUTSIDE routine.
- Teach a potty command like ‘go potty’ or ‘hurry up.’
- Use praise and/or a treat after he goes potty where you want.
- Only allow off kitchen time when you know your pup has eliminated.
- Your pet earns more freedom as he develops bladder control.
- Puppies will always have accidents, and it is always the owner’s fault. Supervision reduces accidents. If you can’t supervise, put him in the crate.
Copyright 2006 by Dog Builders
Copyright 2006 by Dog Builders. This article or any part of this article may not be reproduced in any form or circulated without author’s permission. We post articles to educate the public and would allow the use of printed materials for that purpose. If you want to use any publications, you must contact us first. Materials cannot be edited or changed and must be used in whole, including our logo.
The Importance of Puppy Socialization
This series discusses how valuable socialization is for normal development and what you can do to help. A properly socialized puppy is happy and content. A well-balanced puppy will accept new places, noises, and people and other dogs with confidence. An unsocialized dog exhibits fear and/or aggression toward people, other dogs, and any new situation. The number one reason why dogs are euthanized is due to a lack of socialization during critical phases.
The most crucial time in a puppy’s development is during the first 16 weeks of life; the social exposure during this time affects how he relates to people and the world around him. The puppy’s mother, littermates, breeder, and new owners are responsible for properly socializing a puppy during different phases of development. If you miss your window of opportunity, you cannot go back and make it up.
Your pup’s temperament and behavior traits develop during this time and any experiences he has will affect him for the rest of his life. Positive social exposure has a bigger influence over behavior than breed characteristics. Furthermore, a negative experience can emotionally scar the puppy (an aggressive dog attacks a puppy while in its fear stage will create a dog aggression issue for the puppy). It is important for new owners to learn the developmental stages and when to expose the puppy to the world.
The first ‘social’ lesson learned from his mother is how to keep the den clean. For the first 3-4 weeks of life, the mother controls elimination by consuming their excrement, which is how they learn how to keep their den/crate clean. Around 5 weeks, puppies are weaned and their mother stops cleaning up after them. The breeder steps in to further reinforce keeping the den clean by using a substrate different from the bedding material (sawdust or newspaper). Then, after mealtime, the puppies will run from the source of food to the elimination area.
The puppy’s mother is also the first to issue discipline. Littermates teach social lessons like how to control the strength of their bite, how to vocalize, and how to interpret dog body language. Puppies take turns being dominant and submissive. They learn how to play bow, share space and food, and most importantly, where they fit into the pack.
Ideally, a litter of puppies is kept together until they are 8 weeks old, because the lessons learned from their mother and siblings are crucial. A good breeder will execute some form of puppy-raising program to enhance development. The most renowned guide to help stimulate and enrich early neurological development is “Developing High Achievers” by Dr. Carmen Battaglia. Google “Super Dog Program” for the entire article.
Experts say that the best time for a puppy to learn proper social skills is between 4 and 16 weeks of age. Life lessons taught by the mother and littermates build the foundation for acceptable behavior. The breeder reinforces those canine rules, introduces human manners, and provides stimulus to enrich their environment (new sights, sounds, smells, tastes, and touch). Breeders that follow enrichment programs produce puppies that are well balanced and ready for the family. Puppies removed from the litter too early tend to be nervous, prone to barking and biting, and less responsive to training.
The new owner is responsible for continuing enrichment exercises and to familiarize the puppy to their lifestyle. Read puppy-raising books to become knowledgeable about growth stages and how to train skills like housebreaking, crate training, teaching respect, establishing leadership, and basic obedience. Enroll in a group puppy class by the age of 14 weeks; your trainer should offer a training program that reflects the needs of the puppy and the ability of the owner.
Dr. Carmen Battaglia created the Rule of 7′s as a guide to increase a puppy’s exposure. You do not have to follow it to the letter, but make sure your puppy is current on all shots before taking him out into a strange area. By the time a puppy is 3 months, make sure he has:
- Been on 7 different types of surfaces: carpet, tile, linoleum, concrete, wood, vinyl, grass, dirt, gravel, and wood chips.
- Played with 7 different types of objects: rope toys, plush toys, big balls, small balls, soft fabric toys, squeaky toys, paper or cardboard items, metal items, and sticks.
- Been in 7 different locations: front & back yard, basement, kitchen, car, garage, laundry room, bathroom, kids room, living room, hallway, Vet’s office, groomers.
- Met and played with 7 new people: include children and older adults, someone walking with a cane or in a wheelchair or walker, someone tall, someone in a hat.
- Been exposed to 7 challenges: climb on a box, go through a tunnel, climb steps, go down steps, climb over obstacles, play hide and seek, go in and out of a doorway with a step up or down, run around a fence.
- Eaten from 7 different containers: metal, plastic, cardboard, paper, human hands, pie plate, tin pan, frying pan, Frisbee, elevated bowl.
- Eaten in 7 different locations: crate, yard, exercise pen, basement, laundry room, living room, bathroom, back yard.
Each new, positive experience will help your puppy flourish into a confident companion. Allow your puppy to learn passively by letting them to explore on their own, but make sure he is 100% supervised and that it is a controlled environment. Do not use any harsh training methods with a puppy, because you will break the bond of trust. Training should be fair and fun.
Copyright 2010, Dog Builders
Copyright 2006 by Dog Builders. This article or any part of this article may not be reproduced in any form or circulated without author’s permission. We post articles to educate the public and would allow the use of printed materials for that purpose. If you want to use any publications, you must contact us first. Materials cannot be edited or changed and must be used in whole, including our logo.
Summer Hazards
Midwest weather changes from cold to hot in a second, and we seem to be caught off guard when it comes to our pets. The heat, bugs, and thunderstorms are just a few of the issues we need to consider to keep our dogs safe during the summer months.
Dogs in Cars – Leave your dog at home, not in the car! On a 70-degree day, the sun will heat the interior of a car to a killer temperature. It may be fun for a dog to hang his head out of the window, but flying debris is a danger, and dogs should not ride in the back of a pick up.
Outdoor events – It is great to take your pet to the fair, but leave him at home when it is extremely hot. When you take your dog, offer water frequently, and rest in the shade. Avoid hot surfaces like concrete, asphalt, or sand.
Poisons & Chemicals – A dog or puppy can become seriously ill or die from ingesting fertilizers, herbicides, insecticides, or rodenticides. Read and follow directions carefully before using anything. Keep all poisons in a child and dog proof location.
Mulch – Fresh cocoa bean much can be toxic if a large quantity is ingested.
Antifreeze – Check for leaks, as a small amount is very toxic. Its sweet taste attracts animals. Switch to a product that contains propylene glycol, not ethylene glycol.
Sunburn – Light dogs and dogs with short hair are at the highest risk of sunburn, but other dogs also can burn on their nose, ears, and belly too. Sunburn caused sores, infections, hair loss, and skin cancer. People sun precautions should also apply to dogs. Use a sunscreen that is non-toxic to dogs.
Ear infections – Lift your dog’s ear and take a whiff, if there is a nasty smell, call your vet.
Hot Spots – Also known as summer sores or moist eczema; they can erupt very quickly.
Noise phobias –Unless you know your puppy is fine with loud, sudden noises, don’t take him to the fireworks. If you have neighbors that randomly set off firecrackers, take out your Kong toy and fill it with peanut butter to distract him from the noise. Eventually, loud noises will mean a nice treat.
Dogs at large – Do not approach. Teach children to back away slowly and quietly and find an adult. Call animal control or the police.
Kids at large –Untrained kids tease dogs through fences. A dog tied up can’t escape from a pack of kids throwing things at him. Protect your dog, and do not leave him unattended.
Exercise – avoid strenuous exercise during extreme heat
Heatstroke – watch for intense rapid panting, wide eyes, salivating, staggering, and lethargy. A lack of water, hot enclosed spaces, high humidity, obesity, age, and a heavy coat will increase the risk for heat stoke. A dog’s normal rectal temperature is 101 to 102.5. Immediately, call your vet if it is over 102.5!
Pests – (fleas, tick, flies, bees) Use a Veterinarian approved prevention program.
Water safety – Dogs can drown. Supervise dogs around pools and have a life jacket when boating. Young dogs cannot monitor their stamina and may not make it back to shore.
Traveling – If you want to take your dog on vacation…plan ahead. www.petfriendlytravel.com
Please contact your Veterinarian with any health concerns regarding your pet. For a detailed list of poisons and toxic plants, call Animal Poison Hotline
(888-232-8870) or visit www.peteducation.com or www.aspca.com.
During the summer, frequently check your dog’s fur, paws, skin, and ears for ulcers or infection. Take notice of his eating and bathroom habits. A sick dog can’t tell you what is wrong. A sick dog will show you when he is sick, but you have to be watching for these signals. Have a safe summer.
Copyright 2006 by Dog Builders. This article or any part of this article may not be reproduced in any form or circulated without author’s permission. We post articles to educate the public and would allow the use of printed materials for that purpose. If you want to use any publications, you must contact us first. Materials cannot be edited or changed and must be used in whole, including our logo.
