Dog Builders

2009-07-22T13:59:00.003-05:00

Summer Hazards

Midwest weather changes from cold to hot in a second, and we seem to be caught off guard when it comes to our pets. The heat, bugs, and thunderstorms are just a few of the issues we need to consider to keep our dogs safe during the summer months.

Dogs in Cars – Leave your dog at home, not in the car! On a 70-degree day, the sun will heat the interior of a car to a killer temperature. It may be fun for a dog to hang his head out of the window, but flying debris is a danger, and dogs should not ride in the back of a pick up.
Outdoor events – It is great to take your pet to the fair, but leave him at home when it is extremely hot. When you take your dog, offer water frequently, and rest in the shade. Avoid hot surfaces like concrete, asphalt, or sand.
Poisons & Chemicals – A dog or puppy can become seriously ill or die from ingesting fertilizers, herbicides, insecticides, or rodenticides. Read and follow directions carefully before using anything. Keep all poisons in a child and dog proof location.
Mulch – Fresh cocoa bean much can be toxic if a large quantity is ingested.
Antifreeze – Check for leaks, as a small amount is very toxic. Its sweet taste attracts animals. Switch to a product that contains propylene glycol, not ethylene glycol.
Sunburn – Light dogs and dogs with short hair are at the highest risk of sunburn, but other dogs also can burn on their nose, ears, and belly too. Sunburn caused sores, infections, hair loss, and skin cancer. People sun precautions should also apply to dogs. Use a sunscreen that is non-toxic to dogs.
Ear infections – Lift your dog’s ear and take a whiff, if there is a nasty smell, call your vet.
Hot Spots – Also known as summer sores or moist eczema; they can erupt very quickly.
Noise phobias –Unless you know your puppy is fine with loud, sudden noises, don’t take him to the fireworks. If you have neighbors that randomly set off firecrackers, take out your Kong toy and fill it with peanut butter to distract him from the noise. Eventually, loud noises will mean a nice treat.
Dogs at large – Do not approach. Teach children to back away slowly and quietly and find an adult. Call animal control or the police.
Kids at large –Untrained kids tease dogs through fences. A dog tied up can’t escape from a pack of kids throwing things at him. Protect your dog, and do not leave him unattended.
Exercise – avoid strenuous exercise during extreme heat
Heatstroke – watch for intense rapid panting, wide eyes, salivating, staggering, and lethargy. A lack of water, hot enclosed spaces, high humidity, obesity, age, and a heavy coat will increase the risk for heat stoke. A dog’s normal rectal temperature is 101 to 102.5. Immediately, call your vet if it is over 102.5!
Pests – (fleas, tick, flies, bees) Use a Veterinarian approved prevention program.
Water safety – Dogs can drown. Supervise dogs around pools and have a life jacket when boating. Young dogs cannot monitor their stamina and may not make it back to shore.
Traveling – If you want to take your dog on vacation…plan ahead. www.petfriendlytravel.com

Please contact your Veterinarian with any health concerns regarding your pet. For a detailed list of poisons and toxic plants, call Animal Poison Hotline
(888-232-8870) or visit www.peteducation.com or www.aspca.com.
During the summer, frequently check your dog’s fur, paws, skin, and ears for ulcers or infection. Take notice of his eating and bathroom habits. A sick dog can’t tell you what is wrong. A sick dog will show you when he is sick, but you have to be watching for these signals. Have a safe summer.

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Copyright 2006 by Susan Jakobs. This article or any part of this article may not be reproduced in any form or circulated without author’s permission. We post articles to educate the public and would allow the use of printed materials for that purpose. If you want to use any publications, you must contact us first. Materials cannot be edited or changed and must be used in whole, including our logo.

Noise Phobias

2009-01-22T09:48:00.001-06:00

Fear of Thunderstorms and Noise Phobias By Holly Nash, DVM, MS

What causes fear of storms and other noises?

It is unknown why some pets become afraid of noises; it is a common problem in dogs, but less so in cats. The fear can soon become a phobia, which is defined as A persistent, excessive, and irrational fear response. In the case of thunderstorms, pets may also be fearful of storm-associated events such as a change in barometric pressure, lightning, electrostatic disturbances, and even smells associated with the storms. Noise phobias can include fear of thunderstorms, firecrackers, gunshots, and even the sound of birds.

A recent study has found that certain breeds have an above average risk of developing noise phobias. These include some of the working and sporting breeds such as Collies, German Shepherds, Beagles, and Basset Hounds. This survey was quite small, however, and more research needs to be done in this area. The study also found that dogs who had separation anxiety were more likely to also have noise and thunderstorm phobias.

A noise phobia may be traced to a particular bad experience of a noise, but often, no triggering event can be ascertained. In almost all instances, the fear of noises and storms escalates, worsening with each exposure. Soon the pet may become fearful of similar sounds or events associated with the noise. For example, a pet afraid of thunder may also become afraid of rain, or a dog afraid of gunshots may show fear at the mere sight of a hunting rifle.

The owner's attitude can influence the severity of the fear. For instance, if owners themselves are nervous during storms, noise phobias in their pets may occur more often or become more severe. Similarly, if the owner attempts to comfort the animal, the animal interprets it as confirming there really is something to be afraid of. The petting or comforting is really positive reinforcement of an undesirable behavior.

What are the signs of noise phobia?

Different animals may display different signs of noise phobias which include:

· Hiding (most common sign in cats)

Urinating
Defecating
Chewing
Panting
Pacing
Trying to escape (digging, jumping through windows or going through walls, running away)
Drooling
Seeking the owner
Expressing anal glands
Not eating
Not listening to commands
Trembling or shaking
Dilated pupils
Vocalizing (barking or meowing)

Consult with a veterinarian experienced in animal behavior problems, and/or an animal behaviorist if your pet is showing signs of noise phobia. They can help develop a treatment plan for your pet.

How is noise phobia treated?

There is no guarantee that a noise phobia can be totally resolved, but in many instances the fear can be managed effectively. The effectiveness of treatment depends on a number of factors including the severity of the phobia; how long the pet has had it; whether it is ongoing, seasonal, or unpredictable; and the amount of time the owner is willing to commit to the behavior modification techniques.

The first thing to remember is that you should refrain from giving rewards or punishment. This is extremely important. Petting, consoling, or even saying, "It's OK," may be interpreted by the pet as a reward for the fearful response. In the event of comforting a dog during a storm, for example, it may signal to the pet that the storm really is something he should be afraid of. Similarly, the pet should not be punished for showing fear. This will only increase his anxiety level. Usually treatment includes three other facets: medications, changing the environment, and behavior modification.

Administer medications: Medications may be given individually or in combination. In some instances, the medication may be administered during an entire thunderstorm season. Others may be given when a storm or noisy event (Fourth of July fireworks) is expected. A common protocol is to give amitriptyline during the storm season, and valium when a storm is predicted. The valium or other quick-acting medication needs to be given prior to the development of any behavioral or physical signs of anxiety. If there is a chance of a storm predicted for the afternoon, the pet should start receiving the valium or similar medication in the morning. Pets who also exhibit separation anxiety may need a different combination of medications. Several combinations may need to be tried before the optimum regimen for a particular animal is determined. Many of the medications that would be used on a daily basis, e.g.; Amitriptyline, Prozac, and Buspirone, may take 3-4 weeks to see an effect. Examples of medications used include:

Alprazolam (Xanax)
Amitriptyline (Elavil)
Buspirone (Buspar)
Clomipramine (Clomicalm)
Clorazepate (Tranxene)
Diazepam (Valium)
Fluoxetine (Prozac)
Inderal
Paroxetine (Paxil)
Tranxene-SD

Alternative therapies have also been used with some success. These include melatonin and flower essences such as Rescue Remedy. These two therapies take effect within an hour of administration, and should be given prior to the storm or other fear-producing event.

Change environment: By changing the environment of the animal during the storm or noise, the anxiety level can be reduced. Changing the environment may reduce the volume level of the sound or help make the pet less aware of it.

Increase vigorous exercise: The pet should receive vigorous exercise daily, and more so on a day when the fear-producing noise is likely to occur. The exercise will help to tire the animal, both mentally and physically, and may make her less responsive to the noise. In addition, exercise has the effect of increasing natural serotonin levels, which can act as a sedative.

Reduce or block the noise level: "White noise," such as running a fan or air conditioner may aid in blocking out some of the fear-producing noise. Playing a TV or radio can have a similar effect. Allowing the pet access to the basement or a room without outside walls or windows may decrease the noise level. Closing the windows and curtains can also help reduce the noise. Some owners have placed foam earplugs or cotton balls in their pets' ears.

Create a safe haven: Some pets feel more comfortable in a small space such as a crate or a small room like a bathroom (run the fan and leave the lights on). Some pets seek out the safety of the bathtub or shower during a storm. (Some have hypothesized that a pet may feel less static electricity if on tile or porcelain.) If the pet is comfortable in a crate, the crate can be covered with a blanket to add to the feeling of security. The door to the crate should be left open and the pet should not be confined to the crate, which could dramatically increase the stress level. Some pets, especially cats, may find that a closet or area under the bed makes a good retreat.

Project a calm attitude: Pets are very aware of the mental state of their owners. If you are worried or nervous, this will add to the pet's fear. Your pet will look to you for direction, so keep an "upbeat" and "in charge" attitude.

Maintain good health and nutrition: Health problems may increase the stress level of pets, and increase their anxiety. For instance, a dog in pain because of hip dysplasia may be more irritable and prone to other behavior changes. Diets too high in protein have been linked to some behavioral problems. Consult your veterinarian if you would like advice about changing your pet's diet.

Behavior modification: Special techniques can be used to help change the animal's response to the noise.

Counterconditioning: Using counterconditioning, the animal is taught to display an acceptable behavior rather than an unacceptable one as a response to a certain stimulus. In this way, a negative stimulus can become associated with a positive event. For instance, the only time the pet gets his most favorite treat, game, or toy, is just prior to and during a thunderstorm. Dogs who enjoy traveling may be taken for a car ride, or cats who love catnip, may be given their favorite catnip mouse. (Dogs who enjoy swimming will need to wait inside until the storm is over!) After a time, the pet will start associating an oncoming storm with getting to have his favorite thing.

Desensitization: Using desensitization, the animal's response is decreased while he is exposed to increasing levels of the fear-producing stimulus. For noise phobias, the animal is taught to be calm when the noise level is low, and then the noise level is gradually increased. This process is generally more successful in dogs than cats. To desensitize a pet to thunderstorms:

1. Obtain a commercial tape or CD of a storm, or tape record one yourself (commercial products generally work better). Play the recording at normal volume to determine if it will induce the fear response. If it does, continue with the desensitization; if not, you will need to obtain a different recording. For some animals, a recording alone may not work, since there may be a combination of occurrences that provokes fear, e.g.; thunder plus lightning or changes in barometric pressure. For these animals, darkening the room and adding strobe lights may more closely mimic the storm, and may need to be included in the desensitization process.

2. Play the recording at a volume low enough that the pet is aware of the sound, but it does not induce a fear response. For instance, the ears may be cocked towards the source of the sound, but you still have the pet's attention. In some instances, that may mean the pet needs to be in a different room from where the recording is playing. While the recording is playing at the low level, engage the pet in an activity in which you give the commands, such as obedience training or performing tricks. Give food or other rewards during the activity when the pet accomplishes what he is supposed to. If the animal shows signs of fear, stop and try again the next day, playing the recording at an even lower level. It is important that the pet not be rewarded while he is fearful or anxious. Sessions should last about 20 minutes.

3. If the animal does not respond fearfully, during the next session, increase the volume slightly. Again, involve the pet in an activity and reward it for obeying commands. Continue increasing the volume gradually for each session. If the pet starts to show fear, decrease the volume. Repeat the sessions in various rooms of the house and with various family members present.

4. When the pet does not show fear when the recording is played at a loud volume, you may want to try playing the recording for a short time while you are absent. Gradually increase the time you are gone while the recording is playing.

5. When the pet appears to have lost his fear, the sessions can be reduced to one per week. In most instances, these sessions will need to be repeated weekly for the life of the pet.

6. During an actual storm, use the same activities and rewards you used in the training sessions.

To increase the chances of successful desensitization, the training process should take place during a time of the year when the actual noise will not be encountered: if the pet is afraid of thunder or fireworks, try desensitization during the winter; if afraid of gunshots, the training should take place outside of the hunting season. In most instances, it is best to discontinue any behavior-modifying medications during the desensitization process. Consult with your veterinarian before discontinuing any medications.

Conclusion

Fear of thunderstorms and other forms of noise phobia are common problems in dogs, and some cats. Administering medications along with changing the pets environment, and using behavior modification techniques can help ease the fear. Above all, do not give your pet any attention or reward when he is showing signs of fear; this will only reinforce the fearful behavior.

Common Behavior Issues

2009-01-22T09:45:00.001-06:00

Behavior Issues and Your Dog

Behavior issues are the main reason dogs are abandoned, given to a shelter, or put to sleep. Dr. Draper, DVM, PhD, MBA from Iowa State University College of Veterinary Medicine expresses his concern over recent statistics: 42% of veterinarians report behavior problems, 15% of clients' dogs are put to sleep due to behavior issues, over 4 million dog bites occur each year, and in 2004 there were 20 deaths caused by dog bites. We can reduce the number of needless deaths by educating dog owners, utilizing behavior modification techniques, and training puppies before behavior problems surface.

Studies also show that most dog bites are from pets or other dogs known to the victim. Children, especially boys between the ages of 5-9, comprise the largest number of dog bite victims. ANY dog large or small can become a dangerous or a vicious dog. Actually, more small dogs bite than large dogs, and most bites occur as a fear response not as an aggressive attack.

35% of a dog's behavior is genetic and 65% is a result of the environment. The owner is more responsible for the behavior than the breed of the dog. Improper training techniques, overly harsh corrections, hitting, and/or the lack of socialization increase the incidents of negative behaviors. The following are some common problems:

Mailman syndrome: Mailman comes to the door, the dog barks. The mailman leaves and dog (in his mind) wins the battle. This event occurs 6 days a week. If this behavior is not corrected, you have trained your dog to protect your house from the mailman.

Tug of war games: The game of tug is usually the first game people like to play with their puppy. However, tug encourages and reinforces biting and fighting for an object. Because this is a fun game, a puppy will try to start a game of tug with anything in his reach, which may be a pant leg, a child's blanket, and/or the leash.

Noise phobia: A loud noise occurs and the dog whines or shivers. The owner picks up the dog and says in a soothing voice, "It's okay, it's okay." If the owner continues to do this when a loud noise occurs, a fear reaction is created and constantly reinforced. The owner is not protecting the dog. They are creating anxiety that will generalize to other noises and worsen over time.

A lack of knowledge about dog behavior and how dogs learn create behavior problems that can be prevented. Establishing a solid foundation of obedience, early socialization, and becoming aware of how your dog learns will reduce the occurrence of behavior problems in your household. The principals of learning don't change, but there are specific behavior modification programs and many training techniques that can be used for select behavior issues.

Reading about dogs, working with a reputable trainer, and patience are keys to preventing future bad behaviors and solving existing behavior problems. Your dog will be happier when he knows the rules, and you will have a more peaceful household and look forward to many wonderful years with your canine partner.

Written by Susan Jakobs: Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, Evaluator and Trainer for Edward Hospital's Animal Assisted Therapy Program, Northwest Community Hospital, Palos Community Hospital, OSF St. Anthony's, Rockford, OSF St. Francis, Peoria. www.dogbuilders.com

Should I get another Dog?

2009-01-22T09:41:00.001-06:00

Ready for a second dog?

Most people want another dog as a companion for their first dog, but be aware that some complications may arise. If your dog suffers from separation anxiety, a second dog is not the cure as the new dog may develop this problem too. If your first dog is untrained, the second dog will learn the bad habits faster than good ones. There is also chance that the pair will develop their own sub-pack and pay less attention to you.

Be prepared to double dog expenses (food, training, grooming, boarding, vet bills), to schedule more time for training and walks, and to pick up more poop. On the bright side, a new dog can spark new life into an older dog and provide companionship and entertainment for everyone.

Dog selection and pack management are critical for a creating a harmonious dog household. A good dog leader can handle many dogs, but a poor manager will have trouble with one dog should not get a second. The tips below will help make your multiple dog household run smoother:

Wait until your first dog is mentally and sexually mature (18 months to 3 years).
Train your first dog. She/he will help raise and train a new puppy.
Cross sex. If you have a female, get a male. If you have a male, you can get a male or a female. Most people assume that the male rules the pack, but research shows the opposite is true. Females are willing to fight harder to establish a dominant position. 85% of my dog-to-dog issues deal with pack dissention between females. You, should hold the leadership role, so no matter how you combine sexes, your dogs will look to you for leadership, not each other.
Avoid getting littermates, because this creates dependency and anxiety issues. One pup develops normally, but the other becomes overly dependent and when separated, one or both will suffer from severe separation anxiety.
If you get littermates, use 2 crates, train, walk, socialize separately, and give them separate playtime, in addition to the time they spend together. This will allow them to develop confidence and personalities independent of each other. This should be done for their first year.
Introduce the new dog on neutral territory. Keep the older dog on a leash initially so you can control his response to a puppy. Once an older dog has accepted a new puppy, you should be able to let them sort their own relationship out without any interference. Consult a professional if your older dog will not accept a puppy.
Size does not matter. An adult, large dog perceives a small dog as a puppy and will be very gentle. Do don't be afraid to get a small breed, they think they are big.

There are always exceptions to the advice above. Use logic and do some research before deciding what dog to introduce to your house. Talk to your Vet, trainer, breeder, or groomer for an insight on the issue.

2008 Written by Susan Jakobs: Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. Visit www.dogbuilders.com.

Summer Hazards for Dogs

2009-01-22T09:40:00.001-06:00

Summer Hazards for Dogs

Midwest weather changes from cold to hot in a second, and we seem to be caught off guard when it comes to our pets. The heat, bugs, and thunderstorms are just a few of the issues we need to consider to keep our dogs safe during the summer months.

Dogs in Cars Duh! Leave your dog at home, not in the car! On a 70-degree day, the sun will heat the interior of a car to a killer temperature. It may be fun for a dog to hang his head out of the window, but flying debris is a danger, and dogs should not ride in the back of a pick up.

Outdoor events It is great to take your pet to the fair, but leave him at home when it is extremely hot. When you take your dog, offer water frequently, and rest in the shade. Avoid hot surfaces like concrete, asphalt, or sand.

Poisons & Chemicals A dog or puppy can become seriously ill or die from ingesting fertilizers, herbicides, insecticides, or rodenticides. Read and follow directions carefully before using anything. Keep all poisons in a child and dog proof location.

Mulch Fresh cocoa bean much can be toxic if a large quantity is ingested.

Antifreeze Check for leaks, as a small amount is very toxic. Its sweet taste attracts animals. Switch to a product that contains propylene glycol, not ethylene glycol.

Sunburn Light dogs and dogs with short hair are at the highest risk of sunburn, but other dogs also can burn on their nose, ears, and belly too. Sunburn caused sores, infections, hair loss, and skin cancer. People sun precautions should also apply to dogs. Use a sunscreen that is non-toxic to dogs.

Ear infections Lift your dog's ear and take a whiff, if there is a nasty smell, call your vet.

Hot Spots Also known as summer sores or moist eczema; they can erupt very quickly.

Noise phobias Unless you know your puppy is fine with loud, sudden noises, don't take him to the fireworks. If you have neighbors that randomly set off firecrackers, take out your Kong toy and fill it with peanut butter to distract him from the noise. Eventually, loud noises will mean a nice treat.

Dogs at large Do not approach. Teach children to back away slowly and quietly and find an adult. Call animal control or the police.

Kids at large Untrained kids tease dogs through fences. A dog tied up can't escape from a pack of kids throwing things at him. Protect your dog, and do not leave him unattended.

Exercise avoid strenuous exercise during extreme heat

Heatstroke watch for intense rapid panting, wide eyes, salivating, staggering, and lethargy. A lack of water, hot enclosed spaces, high humidity, obesity, age, and a heavy coat will increase the risk for heat stoke. A dog's normal rectal temperature is 101 to 102.5. Immediately, call your vet if it is over 102.5!

Pests (fleas, tick, flies, bees) Use a Veterinarian approved prevention program.

Water safety Dogs can drown. Supervise dogs around pools and have a life jacket when boating. Young dogs cannot monitor their stamina and may not make it back to shore.

Traveling If you want to take your dog on vacationplan ahead. www.petfriendlytravel.com

Please contact your Veterinarian with any health concerns regarding your pet. For a detailed list of poisons and toxic plants, visit www.peteducation.com, www.aspca.com, or call Animal Poison Hotline (888-232-8870)

During the summer, frequently check your dog's fur, paws, skin, and ears for ulcers or infection. Take notice of his eating and bathroom habits. A sick dog can't tell you what is wrong. A sick dog will show you when he is sick, but you have to be watching for these signals. Have a safe summer.

2008 Written by Susan Jakobs: Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. Visit www.dogbuilders.com.

Puppy Biting

2009-01-22T09:38:00.001-06:00

Puppy Biting

Puppy teeth are razor sharp and the teething stage is painfulfor everyone. Puppies should have their adult teeth by 7 months; biting after 8 months is protest biting or a learned behavior. Research shows that a major contributor to excessive puppy biting is early adoption (before 8 weeks). The Illinois Animal Control Act 605/2.2 states that the mother and her puppies must remain together until the age of 8 weeks.

A puppy learns bite inhibition from his mother and littermates. If a pup bites too hard or is too bossy, the other pups will let him know very quickly. These lessons sound violent, but they are crucial for proper development. Although puppies learn restraint better from their peers, the hints below should help:

Redirection offer proper toys to chew. No old socks or shoes. A puppy cannot tell the difference between new and old. Avoid items that are easily destroyed.
If your puppy bites while you are petting, quietly remove your attention from him. This has to be done many times before the pup realizes he is being ignored. Once he relaxes, pet him again, etcetera.
Use positive reinforcement ("good dog") when your puppy chews the right toy and say "no", when he selects the wrong object. Always offer the right option to reinforce what you want.
Use a chewing deterrent (Grannick's Apple Bitter). First, give your pup a taste of it several times for a few days to create a negative association between the bad taste and the bad smell. Then spray it on your hands, furniture, or the leash to deter the biting.
No tug of war or slapping games.
When your puppy is in a rowdy, biting mood, use the crate for a "positive" time out.
Set up a play dates with other puppies.
Teach your puppy how to accept touch (brushing, nail trim, teeth brushing).
When your puppy bites, scream "OW!" in a high-pitched voice. Then ignore him.
If your puppy doesn't get the message, use a leash correction or a little scruff and scold him in a low-toned voice (sound evil). Never grab, strike, or pinch his nose as this will make your puppy not trust hands.

Puppies that won't stop or get wilder after a correction have a strong defense response and will continue to snap or snarl. Advanced "scruff" or a "restraint" methods work for this type of dog, BUT proper timing and delivery are vital for these exercises. It is important to remain calm and quiet while working with this type of puppy. Poor training will make the problem worse and you may be bit.

Consult a professional before attempting any method that is unknown to you. Once a dog is over the teething state (3-5 months), he should not be mouthy or biting. Don't make excuses for your bad behavior, get help.

2008 Written by Susan Jakobs: Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. Visit www.dogbuilders.com or www.midwestcanineacademy.com or call 815-590-8008

The Higher Mind of Dogs

2009-01-22T09:34:00.001-06:00

Use psychology to control a dominant dog

Dogs are programmed to compete for food, objects, space, and pack position. A dog with a docile personality will fit into a household without a problem, but a dog with a dominant personality will challenge, and manipulate the humans that do not demonstrate leadership qualities. The owner that doesn't recognize this may inadvertently create or reinforce dominant behaviors. A dominant dog will not 'outgrow' a dominant personality and their bad behaviors tend to escalate over time.

If your dog exhibits any of the following BOSSY behaviors, you need to make a change. Nudge for attention, bark to manipulate, bite when groomed, protect space with a bite or growl, ignore commands, not come when called, steal or hoard objects, protect items or food, not release a toy, growl for control, urinate on you or personal items, and pulls on the leash.

Common mistakes: letting your dog push past you in doorways or on stairs, treating your dog like a baby, carrying your dog like a purse, not socializing, not training, bribing with too many treats, not fixing the growls, bites, and barks, letting them drag you on a walk, allowing them on the furniture, giving too much attention for doing nothing, inconsistent training, trying to train without a leash, overall lack of structure, management and supervision.

What can I do to change?

Adopt the rule that your dog has to EARN attention and food. Train your dog earn his meal by having him sit and wait for it. Ignore him when he pushes your hand for attention. Reward your dog ONLY WHEN you get what you want.

Over time, this method changes your dog from the bossy one to the willing one. Your dog will learn that he will have to obey you to get what he wants! You gain control by setting the rules and by controlling each situation.

Methods that increase your leadership role: teach your dog to sit at (not blast through) the door and allow YOU walk through first, learn how to lead the walk, make his sit to put on the leash, wipe paws, or for grooming, make the entire family participate with training, teach commands like "leave it," "quiet," "no bite," expose them to new places, enroll in a group class to practice your obedience skills with distractions, teach your dog how to be alone, train tricks and have fun with tour dog to increase trust and strengthen the bond.

The owner that understands how to 'out think their dog' will build a dog that adjusts to our social expectations more willingly. If your dog is territorial, dog aggressive, possession aggressive, or food aggressive an additional behavior plan may need to be implemented. Consult a professional to work with you regarding these issues.

2008 Written by Susan Jakobs: Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. Visit www.dogbuilders.com or www.midwestcanineacademy.com or call 815-590-8008

The Importance of Puppy Socialization

2009-01-03T12:25:00.001-06:00

The Importance of Puppy Socialization

This series discusses how valuable socialization is for normal development and what you can do to help. A properly socialized puppy is happy and content. A well-balanced puppy will accept new places, noises, and people and other dogs with confidence. An unsocialized dog exhibits fear and/or aggression toward people, other dogs, and any new situation. The number one reason why dogs are euthanized is due to a lack of socialization during critical phases.

The most crucial time in a puppy's development is during the first 16 weeks of life; the social exposure during this time affects how he relates to people and the world around him. The puppy's mother, littermates, breeder, and new owners are responsible for properly socializing a puppy during different phases of development. If you miss your window of opportunity, you cannot go back and make it up.

Your pup's temperament and behavior traits develop during this time and any experiences he has will affect him for the rest of his life. Positive social exposure has a bigger influence over behavior than breed characteristics. Furthermore, a negative experience can emotionally scar the puppy (an aggressive dog attacks a puppy while in its fear stage will create a dog aggression issue for the puppy). It is important for new owners to learn the developmental stages and when to expose the puppy to the world.

The first 'social' lesson learned from his mother is how to keep the den clean. For the first 3-4 weeks of life, the mother controls elimination by consuming their excrement, which is how they learn how to keep their den/crate clean. Around 5 weeks, puppies are weaned and their mother stops cleaning up after them. The breeder steps in to further reinforce keeping the den clean by using a substrate different from the bedding material (sawdust or newspaper). Then, after mealtime, the puppies will run from the source of food to the elimination area.

The puppy's mother is also the first to issue discipline. Littermates teach social lessons like how to control the strength of their bite, how to vocalize, and how to interpret dog body language. Puppies take turns being dominant and submissive. They learn how to play bow, share space and food, and most importantly, where they fit into the pack.

Ideally, a litter of puppies is kept together until they are 8 weeks old, because the lessons learned from their mother and siblings are crucial. A good breeder will execute some form of puppy-raising program to enhance development. The most renowned guide to help stimulate and enrich early neurological development is "Developing High Achievers" by Dr. Carmen Battaglia. Google "Super Dog Program" for the entire article.

Experts say that the best time for a puppy to learn proper social skills is between 4 and 16 weeks of age. Life lessons taught by the mother and littermates build the foundation for acceptable behavior. The breeder reinforces those canine rules, introduces human manners, and provides stimulus to enrich their environment (new sights, sounds, smells, tastes, and touch). Breeders that follow enrichment programs produce puppies that are well balanced and ready for the family. Puppies removed from the litter too early tend to be nervous, prone to barking and biting, and less responsive to training.

The new owner is responsible for continuing enrichment exercises and to familiarize the puppy to their lifestyle. Read puppy-raising books to become knowledgeable about growth stages and how to train skills like housebreaking, crate training, teaching respect, establishing leadership, and basic obedience. Enroll in a group puppy class by the age of 14 weeks; your trainer should offer a training program that reflects the needs of the puppy and the ability of the owner.

Dr. Carmen Battaglia created the Rule of 7's as a guide to increase a puppy's exposure. You do not have to follow it to the letter, but make sure your puppy is current on all shots before taking him out into a strange area. By the time a puppy is 3 months, make sure he has:

Been on 7 different types of surfaces: carpet, tile, linoleum, concrete, wood, vinyl, grass, dirt, gravel, and wood chips.
Played with 7 different types of objects: rope toys, plush toys, big balls, small balls, soft fabric toys, squeaky toys, paper or cardboard items, metal items, and sticks.
Been in 7 different locations: front & back yard, basement, kitchen, car, garage, laundry room, bathroom, kids room, living room, hallway, Vet's office, groomers.
Met and played with 7 new people: include children and older adults, someone walking with a cane or in a wheelchair or walker, someone tall, someone in a hat.
Been exposed to 7 challenges: climb on a box, go through a tunnel, climb steps, go down steps, climb over obstacles, play hide and seek, go in and out of a doorway with a step up or down, run around a fence.
Eaten from 7 different containers: metal, plastic, cardboard, paper, human hands, pie plate, tin pan, frying pan, Frisbee, elevated bowl.
Eaten in 7 different locations: crate, yard, exercise pen, basement, laundry room, living room, bathroom, back yard.

Each new, positive experience will help your puppy flourish into a confident companion. Allow your puppy to learn passively by letting them to explore on their own, but make sure he is 100% supervised and that it is a controlled environment. Do not use any harsh training methods with a puppy, because you will break the bond of trust. Training should be fair and fun.

2008 Written by Susan Jakobs: Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. Visit www.dogbuilders.com or www.midwestcanineacademy.com or call 815-590-8008

Having a Baby?

2009-01-03T12:24:00.001-06:00

My husband and I are expecting our first baby, what can I do to help my dog adjust?

I think it is a great idea to practice on a dog before committing to a baby. If you have raised your dog properly, introducing a baby will be easy. If you have spoiled your dog, you will have some challenges.

Changing the family pack dynamic by having a baby, moving, getting another dog, the death of a person or animal, or divorce can be upsetting to your pet. Make the following adjustments early to help your dog accept your new baby in a positive way.

Get your dog out of your bed and off the couch and do it soon. The reason for this will become evident when your 80-pound lab jumps on the bed and lands on your 7-pound newborn.
Practice obedience and manners

No jumping, nipping, barking (waking a baby makes mom crabby)
Sit, stay, and down commands are mandatory
No pawing (dogs that use their paws to get attention will scratch delicate skin)
A "leave it" command is crucial (dogs like baby toys and diapers)
Place a baby blanket on the floor -- train your dog to stay off of it

Observe your dog around children

Does he startle to new sounds easily? (graduated exposure will reduce this behavior)
Train large dogs to 'down' when children approach
Seek professional help if your dog growls, nips, or seems uncomfortable around children

Put lotion on your new baby equipment and allow your dog to investigate
Turn on the new baby gadgets so your dog becomes familiar with the noise. Some people play tapes of babies crying.
Role play with a doll and make the actions part of your routine

Practice walking your dog with the stroller
Use the baby carrier
Place the doll in the high chair, crib, and on the changing table

Create an emergency pet care plan for a nighttime delivery
After your baby is born, have your husband bring home a blanket with your new baby's smell and allow your dog to sniff.
The first month with a newborn is exhausting. Try to fit in some solo time with your dog or hire a dog walker to help your pet release some energy.
Warning: Your dog will love the taste of baby vomit and dirty diapers.

Written by Susan Jakobs: Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, Director of Professional Service Dogs, Inc., Visit www.dogbuilders.com.

Puppy Biting

2009-01-03T12:22:00.001-06:00

Puppy Biting

Redirection offer proper toys to chew. No old socks or shoes. A puppy cannot tell the difference between new and old. Avoid items that are easily destroyed. Bored puppies get into trouble.
If your puppy bites while you are petting, quietly remove your attention from him. This has to be done many times before the pup realizes he is being ignored. Once he relaxes, pet him again, etcetera.
Use positive reinforcement ("good dog") when your puppy chews the right toy and say "no", when he selects the wrong object. Always offer the right option to reinforce what you want.
Use a chewing deterrent (Grannick's Apple Bitter). First, give your pup a taste of it several times for a few days to create a negative association between the bad taste and the bad smell. Then spray it on your hands, furniture, or the leash to deter the biting.
No tug of war or slapping games.
When your puppy is in a rowdy, biting mood, use the crate for a "positive" time out. Give him a safe chew toy to alleviate boredom.
Set up a play dates with other puppies.
Teach your puppy how to accept touch (brushing, nail trim, teeth brushing).
When your puppy bites, scream "OW!" in a high-pitched voice. Then ignore him.
If your puppy doesn't get the message, use a leash correction or a little scruff and scold him in a low-toned voice (sound evil). Never grab, strike, or pinch his nose as this will make your puppy not trust hands.

2008 Written by Susan Jakobs: Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. Visit www.dogbuilders.com or www.midwestcanineacademy.com or call 815-590-8008

Dogs and language

2008-12-31T13:58:00.000-06:00

Dog Vocabulary

The March 08 issue of National Geographic discusses the controversial subject of animal intelligence and discusses dogs' ability to learn and identify objects by name. A Border Collie was reported to have a vocabulary of over 300 words! Do not get a BC unless you are willing to devote time and energy to training. Smart dog will become frustrated and destructive when they are not stimulated. The easiest dog to train is NOT the smartest dogit is the WILLING one.

Any dog is capable of learning over 50 commands with proper guidance, although some stubborn breeds need more time and effort to reach this number. Below are some suggestions:

"Dog's name"
"Good boy/girl"
"No, phooey, tsh, eh" any stop action command
"Sit"
"Stay"
"Down" means lay down, not get down
"Heel" walk by your side
"Come, here" this takes about a year to train
"Kennel, crate, bed"
"Quiet, hush, enough"
"Off" get off the counter or furniture
"Leave it"
"Place" select a place for them to relax and stay
"Potty, hurry up, do it"
"Hup, up, load" invites them into or onto a place
"Let's go" a causal walk with no pulling
"Stand" your groomer and Vet will love this
"Wait" - temporary stay
"Give paw" good for wiping wet paws
"No bite"
"Free dog, okay, relax" to release your dog from working
"Gentle, easy, take it" dog can take food or toy
"Fetch, get it"
"Out, Give, drop, release"
"Find your truck, go for a ride" may save your dog's live when loose in the park

An action must be paired with a command for an association to be established. The average dog will learn a new command after repeating the pairing process 30-50 times, but it may take a stubborn dog 100 times to make the association.

EXAMPLE: The "sit." Lure your dog's nose in the air with a toy or treat. When the nose goes up, the butt goes down. Say the command "sit" as the butt hits the floor. REWARD within 1-2 seconds to reinforce the action. Often people reward the wrong thing. For instance: You say, "sit." Your dog sits, then slides into a "down." You say "good boy." What just happened? You taught your dog to lay down with a sit command. Proper timing is the hardest thing for people to learn.

Positive reinforcement will increase your dog's desire to repeat the action. Use a variety of rewards like praise, treats, or a toy. Don't repeat commands. Be fair. Be Patient. Be consistent. Have FUN. End training sessions on a positive exercise and a special treat.

2008 Written by Susan Jakobs: Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. Visit www.dogbuilders.com or www.midwestcanineacademy.com or call 815-590-8008

Separation Anxiety Treament Program

2008-12-31T13:57:00.001-06:00

SEPARATION ANXIETY TREATMENT PROGRAM

If your veterinarian and your trainer believe that your dog will benefit from medication, Clomipramine is currently the only FDA drug that is approved for use with canines. Studies show that the combination of a behavior modification program and medication increase the success of rehabilitating dogs afflicted with separation anxiety.

1) Identity and understand the problem: First identify if it is a Separation Anxiety disorder. Then you must understand that the dog cannot help what he is doing. Some forms of punishment are not effective and can make the problem worse. Consult a professional.

2) Discourage attachment: Do not encourage your dog to be constantly by your side. For example, you are watching television, make your dog lay down on the other side of the room. Only give attention on your termsnot because he demands it. Praise your dog when he is relaxed and calm. Ignore attention-seeking behaviors.

3) Provide leadership: All humans should be the leader and use the `Nothing in life is free' philosophy. This approach gives your dog a sense of order and structure. The dog must respond to your commands before anything positive is provided in return. Use trick training and obedience as a distraction and to build confidence. Ignore the dog before leaving and upon returning, until the dog has quieted down.

4) Counter-conditioning: Train your dog to exercise an obedience command or a trick (sit/down/shake) when leaving. Then alternate the reward for this action with a treat, praise, or touch. DO NOT get stuck in a new pattern.

5) Habituation: Go through your 'leaving the house routine' and do not leave. Do not encourage anxiety by talking in a sad voice or worrying too much. Dogs feed off their owner's anxiety. Change your departure routine regularly and break existing patterns by presenting them without leaving. At random times, go through rituals of leaving: put on cologne, shower, wear work clothes, taking the car keys, even going outside and locking the door (but then coming in again)

6) Graduated planned departures: The owner starts after one week of habituation, leaving for two minutes, then five minutes, and so on, only increasing the length of absence if no anxiety is exhibited. This process can take from weeks to months.

2008 Written by Susan Jakobs: Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. Visit www.dogbuilders.com or www.midwestcanineacademy.com or call 815-590-8008

Dog Training Secrets

2008-12-31T13:54:00.001-06:00

Dog Training Secrets

Knowing when to praise, when to ignore, and when to redirect is CRUCIAL in training your dog! Understanding how dogs learn and why they react to a stimulus can prevent and/or repair undesirable behaviors and develop desired behaviors. If you understand and employ the following concepts, you will unlock the secrets of training.

Think like dog, not a human. A dog acts and reacts immediately to a situation. They don't plan ahead, and they also don't feel remorse.
A dog knows he is a dog. Owners confuse the dog when they treat him like a child.
Become an effective leader. A dog is hardwired to fit into in a pack where the role of leader and follower are strictly defined. If humans are not good leaders, a dog will assume the leadership role, which causes behavior issues that require professional help.
Good leaders are consistent. All it takes is one person allowing bad behaviors to sabotage training. This is unfair and will delay or prevent learning.
Dogs need structure and rules to live harmoniously.
Dogs need repetition and ritual to learn effectively.
A dog misbehaves 10 times. If you stop that behavior 5 out of 10 times, you will NEVER change behavior. If you stop it 8 out of 10 times, you will gradually change that behavior. 10 out of 10 is better, but not realistic.
Never give a command you cannot immediately enforce. Command and action should happen simultaneously for learning to occur. Sit should mean sit, the first time.
Positive training does not mean permissive.
Build a foundation of respect, not fear.
It is easier to build a puppy than to fix a dog. Set the rules and start training the day your pup comes home.
Dogs want rewards and attention more than anything else. Food, water, shelter, toys, play interaction, touch, and praise are rewards that dogs seek. Dogs do not engage in unrewarding behaviors.
Learn to read your dog and create a balanced training program that fits your dog's personality. A technique that works on one, may backfire on the other.

A person has 4 choices when responding to an action by their dog: 1) do nothing (ignoring), 2) do something neutral (redirection), 3) do something good (praise) or 4) do something bad. We do not want you to do something bad, so throw out your rolled-up newspaper, and learn how to correct properly.

It comes down to understanding the basics of how learning occurs. A reward increases behavior, a punishment decreased behaviors. A dog will not engage in behaviors that do not have some form of reward. Basics of learning are: POSITIVE means presenting a stimulus (praise, treat) NEGATIVE means removing a stimulus (removal of attention or physical praise) REINFORCEMENT increases a behavior (more effective when intermittent) PUNISHMENT decreases a behavior (more effective when consistent)

2008 Written by Susan Jakobs: Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. Visit www.dogbuilders.com or www.midwestcanineacademy.com or call 815-590-8008

Housetraining

2008-02-09T10:34:00.000-06:00

HOUSE TRAINING- USING LOGIC

House training your puppy/dog does not have to be an unpleasant experience. Understanding what basic principles apply and why things work will reduce frustration and increase success.

1. Be realistic about the length of time your dog can control his bowel or bladder. Base this expectation on age and physical ability. A younger dog cannot control his bodily functions for the same amount of time as a more mature dog. A reasonable amount of time can be calculated by adding one hour to your pup's age in months (i.e., a healthy 2-month old should be able hold it for 3 hours etc.). Expecting more is not fair.

2. A sick dog may have accidents unwillingly. Rule out worms or a bladder infection. A visit to the vet is always recommended.

3. Define their bed or den. Wild dogs sleep in a den and domestic dogs sleep in a crate. The average puppy/dog that is mentally and physically sound will not soil in their bed as long as they have opportunity to do it outside. We utilize a crate to mimic our dog's natural instinct to den. Some people think using a crate is horrible, but in reality, the crate becomes their own personal space within your home where they feel safe.

4. Supervision. You MUST eliminate or at least MINIMIZE the opportunity for your dog to soil in your house. Your dog should never be unsupervised until he understands the rules. It is our job as the pack leader to teach our puppy/dog these rules.

5. A puppy's world is relative to his size. If a puppy's crate is too big, he may soil in it. A puppy should just be able to stand up and turn around in their crate. If you selected a large breed, you will have to buy or borrow many sizes as they grow.

The #1 tool for house training is a crate, portable kennel, or puppy carrier. We prefer plastic crates as they are more durable and dogs are less likely to escape. Some people may choose to use papers, pads, or a litter box. This works well for people who live in a high rise, or have dogs with sever allergies. However, starting with puppy pads then switching over to a crate adds an unnecessary step and will delay housetraining.

Why does a crate work? For the first 3-4 weeks of life, puppies nurse and their mother keeps the den clean by consuming their excrement. It may sound gross, but that is how puppies learn how to keep their den/crate clean. At 5 weeks or so, the puppies are weaned and their mother stops cleaning up after them. When this happens, the breeder takes over to further reinforce how to keep a den clean using a substrate different from the bedding material (sawdust or newspaper).

Using a crate also makes correcting undesirable behavior easier. To correct whining or barking in the crate, place the crate near the door in another room. Place the kennel door away from the direction that you will be approaching. If your puppy starts to fuss when you leave the area, approach from the around the corner to rear of the crate (so the puppy does NOT see you or hear you) and rap the top of the crate. Rap the crate hard enough to make a noise and to startle. Do not verbalize. This will re-direct the unwanted behavior and the puppy will associate the bad behavior (whining) with a bad result (rap on the crate). Do this until the behavior stops, then wait a few minutes and pleasantly take the puppy out. The puppy never associates the correction to us if done correctly. Do not use this technique when you know your puppy has to potty, as it would be unfair.

One client did not want to use the crate, because she thought it was cruel. When she left her house, she gave the dog free reign of the house. Every time she returned home, something was destroyed and/or the dog had soiled. Upon arriving home and finding the messes, she scolded the dog. Over time, the arrival of the master was no longer a positive experience for either. The dog began to interpret the owner's arrival home as a time for correction, and the owner was met at the door by a dog whose tail was down and acting depressed instead of a warm friendly greeting.

We introduced the crate and took away the dog's opportunity to do damage. Upon arriving home, the dog was happy to see his master, and the owner was happy to have her house intact. No more messes. No more scolding. It took several weeks to reverse the negativity of the owner's arrival home. In time, the dog looked forward to the owner's arrival home and the owner was thrilled to have her house intact. Both are much happier, and all it took was proper use of the crate.

As trainers, we encounter many events where dogs have destroyed furniture, cabinets, and carpeting. One client allowed their dog to destroy their newly renovated basement. A fifty dollar crate could have saved them frustration and about $5,000. Using a crate will also keep our dogs safe. It will keep them out of dangerous household items like poisons.

The Basics for using a Crate

Introduce you pup/dog to his new crate by using treats and praise. Have a calm and positive attitude when placing him into the crate and give him a treat once he has relaxed. A safe and positive environment for your puppy will speed up training.
Puppy/dog goes from the crate directly outside to potty. Make sure all family members are consistent with the CRATE to OUTSIDE routine.
Teach a potty command like 'go potty' or 'hurry up.' Allow him a reasonable amount of time to complete ALL of his business. Once the mission is complete, give lots of praise so that he knows he did a good job. Use treats intermittently, because we have had dogs 'pretend' to potty for a treat!
If puppy/dog does not potty in a reasonable amount of time, put him back into the crate. Try again a short time later (15-20 minutes).
Once puppy/dog has completely eliminated, then and only then, it can be loose in the house with 100% supervision. If or when you do not have time to supervise your puppy/dog then put him in the crate.
Your pet earns more play space and time as he develops bladder control. Puppies will always have accidents, and it is always the owner's fault. They have not learned the rules yet.
The ONLY time you can correct a dog for an accident is when you catch him in the act. Rubbing your dog's nose in it or making him sit by the mess does not teach them anything. Use the pennies in the can trick or yell 'no' when you catch them.

When you teach your puppy where and when you want them to potty, there are no negatives, just positive reinforcement. Consider the crate your puppy's new home within your home. This training tool may be needed for over a year for a puppy. It may take an adult dog only 3-6 weeks of training. You now understand how to eliminate the opportunity for your puppy to soil in your home or damage property.

You will know when your puppy/dog is becoming housetrained when you are playing and he stops what he is doing and goes to the door requesting to be let out. WHEN THIS HAPPENS CONSISTENTLY, NOT JUST ONCE OR TWICE, it is an indication that your puppy/dog understands what you want. As your puppy/dog becomes more consistent, he earns more freedom. DON'T RUSH IT.

Copyright 2006 by Susan Jakobs. This article or any part of this article may not be reproduced in any form or circulated without author’s permission. We post articles to educate the public and would allow the use of printed materials for that purpose. If you want to use any publications, you must contact us first. Materials cannot be edited or changed and must be used in whole, including our logo.

Dr. R. K. Anderson's Socialization Letter

2008-02-09T10:32:00.000-06:00

Robert K. Anderson DVM
Diplomate ACVB and ACVPM
Professor and Director Emeritus, Animal Behavior Clinic and
Center to Study Human/Animal Relationships and Environments
University of Minnesota
1666 Coffman Street, Suite 128, Falcon Heights, MN 55108
Phone 612-644-7400
FAX 612-644-4262

Puppy Vaccination and Socialization Should Go Together

TO: My Colleagues in Veterinary Medicine:

Common questions I receive from puppy owners, dog trainers and veterinarians concern: 1) what is the most favorable age or period of time when puppies learn best? 2) what are the health implications of my advice that veterinarians and trainers should offer socialization programs for puppies starting at 8 to 9 weeks of age.

Puppies begin learning at birth and their brains appear to be particularly responsive to learning and retaining experiences that are encountered during the first 13 to 16 weeks after birth. This means that breeders, new puppy owners, veterinarians, trainers and behaviorists have a responsibility to assist in providing these learning/socialization experiences with other puppies/dogs, with children/adults and with various environmental situations during this optimal period from birth to 16 weeks.

Experience and epidemiologic data support the relative safety and lack of transmission of disease in these puppy socialization classes over the past 10 years in many parts of the United States.

Many veterinarians are making this early socialization and learning program part of a total wellness plan for breeders and new owners of puppies during the first 16 weeks of a puppy's life -- the first 7-8 weeks with the breeder and the next 8 weeks with the new owners. This socialization program should enroll puppies from 8 to 12 weeks of age as a key part of any preventive medicine program to improve the bond between pets and their people and keep dogs as valued members of the family for 12 to 18 years.

To take full advantage of this early special learning period, many veterinarians recommend that new owners take their puppies to puppy socialization classes, beginning at 8 to 9 weeks of age. At this age they should have (and can be required to have) received a minimum of their first series of vaccines for protection against infectious diseases. This provides the basis for increasing immunity by further repeated exposure to these antigens either through natural exposure in small doses or artificial exposure with vaccines during the next 8 to 12 weeks. In addition the owner and people offering puppy socialization should take precautions to have the environment and the participating puppies as free of natural exposure as possible by good hygiene and caring by careful instructors and owners.

Experience and epidemiologic data support the relative safety and lack of transmission of disease in these puppy socialization classes over the past 10 years in many parts of the United States. In fact; the risk of a dog dying because of infection with distemper or parvo disease is far less than the much higher risk of a dog dying (euthanasia) because of a behavior problem. Many veterinarians are now offering new puppy owners puppy socialization classes in their hospitals or nearby training facilities in conjunction with trainers and behaviorists because they want socialization and training to be very important parts of a wellness plan for every puppy. We need to recognize that this special sensitive period for learning is the best opportunity we have to influence behavior for dogs and the most important and longest lasting part of a total wellness plan.

Are there risks? Yes. But 10 years of good experience and data, with few exceptions, offers veterinarians the opportunity to generally recommend early socialization and training classes, beginning when puppies are 8 to 9 weeks of age. However, we always follow a veterinarian's professional judgment, in individual cases or situations, where special circumstances warrant further immunization for a special puppy before starting such classes. During any period of delay for puppy classes, owners should begin a program of socialization with children and adults, outside their family, to take advantage of this special period in a puppy's life.

If there are further questions, veterinarians may call me at 651-644-7400 for discussion and clarification.

Robert K. Anderson DVM, Diplomate, American College of Veterinary Preventive Medicine and Diplomate of American College of Veterinary Behaviorists

Distributed by Susan Jakobs at 1-815-590-8008

www.dogbuilders.com www.midwestcanineacademy.com

How often should I bathe my dog?

2008-02-09T10:31:00.000-06:00

How often should I bathe my dog?

This depends on your dog's breed, your lifestyle, and the season. A dog can have a double coat, silky coat, curly coat, smooth coat, wiry coat, or a mixed blend. Be aware of any skin allergies and learn what your dog's coat requires. A Smooth coat requires less work than a double coat. If you are unsure, ask your breeder, groomer, or Veterinarian.

Some people rarely bathe their dogs, and some people bathe them weekly. Do what works for you and your budget. I chose low coat maintenance dogs, because they fit into my lifestyle. Make sure to use shampoo made for dogs' coat type and try not to bathe too often.

It is also good idea to expose your puppy to baths and your groomer by the time they are 12 weeks old to avoid making it a traumatic experience when they are older. If you have difficulty with this, work with a professional before it comes a big problem.

Why does my dog roll in smelly things?

2008-02-09T10:27:00.000-06:00

Why does my dog like to roll in smelly things, especially after a bath?

Many dog owners are surprised when nice trip to the park ends in a smelly car ride home. Dogs evolved from wolves over 15,000 years ago, and their DNA make up is almost identical. Many innate behaviors, like 'rolling.' relate to skills that were necessary for hunting.

Your dog's instinct is to mask his own scent with the odor of the environment so he won't be detected by his prey. Some behaviorists state that dogs roll in things to communicate what they have found to other dogs and to mark the territory with their own smell.

Regardless of the reason, when your dog rolls in animal feces or in dirt after a bath, it's unpleasant. However, it's also unfair to punish your dog for following his instinct. If you have a dog that likes to roll, you can manage the behavior with training.

First, identify your dog's pre-rolling activity (some circle then dive in, others smell intently then dive in). When he starts to perform the pre-roll routine, call him off with a command like 'off, 'no sniff,' or 'no' and back away from the odor using the leash to control him.

You are teaching him to retreat from a smell with a verbal command and controlling the action with the leash. Do this many times so he understands what you mean and then practice this retreating action. With practice, your dog will learn how to retreat from the smell by your command.

The desire to roll in smelling things is not present in all dogs. Some dogs refuse to step on wet pavement or grass, and some dogs prance around after a bath. Unfortunately, most dogs like to eat, lick, and roll in things that we find disgusting.

A few canine favorites include: decayed carcasses, dirty diapers, dog butt, dog poo, and animal urine. Rabbit and cat poo are delicacies and are on the top of the list. Knowing this, you may want to think twice before letting your dog lick your face when he comes in from a walk.

How to be a Responsible Dog Owner

2008-01-01T10:35:00.000-06:00

How to be a Responsible Dog Owner

Have you considered the real price of owning a dog? The annual cost for maintaining a dog can range from $300 to $1,500. Basic expenses include food, equipment, vet costs, medicines, grooming, and boarding. Start up costs may include micro chipping, crates, training, fencing, and the puppy, which can cost up to $4,000 in today's market. You also have to be prepared for unexpected medical problems that can cost thousands of dollars.

Dog ownership is more than a financial obligation; it is a time commitment. Our pets rely on us to take care of them and this responsibility can last up to 15 years. Furthermore, having a dog also requires becoming educated about dog behavior.

Do you want to have a friendly, clean, and mannerly dog that is a pleasure to own or one that is excluded from family events and banished to the backyard? The tips below will help you to becoming a better, more responsible dog owner:

Select a dog or a puppy that matches the needs of your family.
Puppy/dog proof your home. Gate off areas you do not want destroyed and pick up items you do not want chewed. Use a crate when you are unable to supervise.
Keep your dog in your yard. There are fines for picking up strays, or, worse, a car could hit them.
Go the Vet regularly for vaccinations and medicine to prevent fleas, ticks, and heartworms. Neuter/Spay your dog to put a stop to unwanted puppies, to reduce aggression, marking, and roaming.
Take care of their appearance. Brushing the coat reduces shedding and brushing their teeth reduces plaque and dog breath. Find a groomer to do it for you.
Provide good leadership. Obedience train your dog so that you can control him at the Vet's office, around other dogs, in crowds, and around children.
Socialize your dog with as many different people as possible, with kids, seniors, disabled folks, and people of different ethnic groups.
Socialize your dog with other dogs at a level that is GOOD for your dog. Obedience classes are a great place to give your dog important social skills.
Learn your dog's bodily functions to prevent accidents and to identify abnormal behavior. Learn your dog's body language to prevent bites.
Build a stronger bond with your dog by taking walks or playing games.
Respect your city's leash laws.
Pick up your dog's waste ALWAYS!
Stop your dog's nuisance barking. Some cities charge $25.00 each violation.
Spend time with your dog. They are pack animals and want to be with the pack, not tied up outside all night.
Understand that not all people love your dog as much as you do.

If you learn how to be a good dog owner, your puppy will pay you back with years of unconditional love and devotion, which is well worth the effort.