Noise Phobias

  Fear of Thunderstorms and Noise Phobias                      By Holly Nash, DVM, MS

 

What causes fear of storms and other noises? It is unknown why some pets become afraid of noises; it is a common problem in dogs, but less so in cats. The fear can soon become a phobia, which is defined as A persistent, excessive, and irrational fear response. In the case of thunderstorms, pets may also be fearful of storm-associated events such as a change in barometric pressure, lightning, electrostatic disturbances, and even smells associated with the storms. Noise phobias can include fear of thunderstorms, firecrackers, gunshots, and even the sound of birds. A recent study has found that certain breeds have an above average risk of developing noise phobias. These include some of the working and sporting breeds such as Collies, German Shepherds, Beagles, and Basset Hounds. This survey was quite small, however, and more research needs to be done in this area. The study also found that dogs who had separation anxiety were more likely to also have noise and thunderstorm phobias. A noise phobia may be traced to a particular bad experience of a noise, but often, no triggering event can be ascertained. In almost all instances, the fear of noises and storms escalates, worsening with each exposure. Soon the pet may become fearful of similar sounds or events associated with the noise. For example, a pet afraid of thunder may also become afraid of rain, or a dog afraid of gunshots may show fear at the mere sight of a hunting rifle. The owner's attitude can influence the severity of the fear. For instance, if owners themselves are nervous during storms, noise phobias in their pets may occur more often or become more severe. Similarly, if the owner attempts to comfort the animal, the animal interprets it as confirming there really is something to be afraid of. The petting or comforting is really positive reinforcement of an undesirable behavior. What are the signs of noise phobia? Different animals may display different signs of noise phobias which include: ·         Hiding (most common sign in cats) Urinating Defecating Chewing Panting Pacing Trying to escape (digging, jumping through windows or going through walls, running away) Drooling Seeking the owner Expressing anal glands Not eating Not listening to commands Trembling or shaking Dilated pupils Vocalizing (barking or meowing) Consult with a veterinarian experienced in animal behavior problems, and/or an animal behaviorist if your pet is showing signs of noise phobia. They can help develop a treatment plan for your pet. How is noise phobia treated? There is no guarantee that a noise phobia can be totally resolved, but in many instances the fear can be managed effectively. The effectiveness of treatment depends on a number of factors including the severity of the phobia; how long the pet has had it; whether it is ongoing, seasonal, or unpredictable; and the amount of time the owner is willing to commit to the behavior modification techniques. The first thing to remember is that you should refrain from giving rewards or punishment. This is extremely important. Petting, consoling, or even saying, "It's OK," may be interpreted by the pet as a reward for the fearful response. In the event of comforting a dog during a storm, for example, it may signal to the pet that the storm really is something he should be afraid of. Similarly, the pet should not be punished for showing fear. This will only increase his anxiety level. Usually treatment includes three other facets: medications, changing the environment, and behavior modification. Administer medications: Medications may be given individually or in combination. In some instances, the medication may be administered during an entire thunderstorm season. Others may be given when a storm or noisy event (Fourth of July fireworks) is expected. A common protocol is to give amitriptyline during the storm season, and valium when a storm is predicted. The valium or other quick-acting medication needs to be given prior to the development of any behavioral or physical signs of anxiety. If there is a chance of a storm predicted for the afternoon, the pet should start receiving the valium or similar medication in the morning. Pets who also exhibit separation anxiety may need a different combination of medications. Several combinations may need to be tried before the optimum regimen for a particular animal is determined. Many of the medications that would be used on a daily basis, e.g.; Amitriptyline, Prozac, and Buspirone, may take 3-4 weeks to see an effect. Examples of medications used include: Alprazolam (Xanax) Amitriptyline (Elavil) Buspirone (Buspar) Clomipramine (Clomicalm) Clorazepate (Tranxene) Diazepam (Valium) Fluoxetine (Prozac) Inderal Paroxetine (Paxil) Tranxene-SD Alternative therapies have also been used with some success. These include melatonin and flower essences such as Rescue Remedy. These two therapies take effect within an hour of administration, and should be given prior to the storm or other fear-producing event. Change environment: By changing the environment of the animal during the storm or noise, the anxiety level can be reduced. Changing the environment may reduce the volume level of the sound or help make the pet less aware of it. Increase vigorous exercise: The pet should receive vigorous exercise daily, and more so on a day when the fear-producing noise is likely to occur. The exercise will help to tire the animal, both mentally and physically, and may make her less responsive to the noise. In addition, exercise has the effect of increasing natural serotonin levels, which can act as a sedative. Reduce or block the noise level: "White noise," such as running a fan or air conditioner may aid in blocking out some of the fear-producing noise. Playing a TV or radio can have a similar effect. Allowing the pet access to the basement or a room without outside walls or windows may decrease the noise level. Closing the windows and curtains can also help reduce the noise. Some owners have placed foam earplugs or cotton balls in their pets' ears. Create a safe haven: Some pets feel more comfortable in a small space such as a crate or a small room like a bathroom (run the fan and leave the lights on). Some pets seek out the safety of the bathtub or shower during a storm. (Some have hypothesized that a pet may feel less static electricity if on tile or porcelain.) If the pet is comfortable in a crate, the crate can be covered with a blanket to add to the feeling of security. The door to the crate should be left open and the pet should not be confined to the crate, which could dramatically increase the stress level. Some pets, especially cats, may find that a closet or area under the bed makes a good retreat. Project a calm attitude: Pets are very aware of the mental state of their owners. If you are worried or nervous, this will add to the pet's fear. Your pet will look to you for direction, so keep an "upbeat" and "in charge" attitude. Maintain good health and nutrition: Health problems may increase the stress level of pets, and increase their anxiety. For instance, a dog in pain because of hip dysplasia may be more irritable and prone to other behavior changes. Diets too high in protein have been linked to some behavioral problems. Consult your veterinarian if you would like advice about changing your pet's diet. Behavior modification: Special techniques can be used to help change the animal's response to the noise. Counterconditioning: Using counterconditioning, the animal is taught to display an acceptable behavior rather than an unacceptable one as a response to a certain stimulus. In this way, a negative stimulus can become associated with a positive event. For instance, the only time the pet gets his most favorite treat, game, or toy, is just prior to and during a thunderstorm. Dogs who enjoy traveling may be taken for a car ride, or cats who love catnip, may be given their favorite catnip mouse. (Dogs who enjoy swimming will need to wait inside until the storm is over!) After a time, the pet will start associating an oncoming storm with getting to have his favorite thing. Desensitization: Using desensitization, the animal's response is decreased while he is exposed to increasing levels of the fear-producing stimulus. For noise phobias, the animal is taught to be calm when the noise level is low, and then the noise level is gradually increased. This process is generally more successful in dogs than cats. To desensitize a pet to thunderstorms: 1.      Obtain a commercial tape or CD of a storm, or tape record one yourself (commercial products generally work better). Play the recording at normal volume to determine if it will induce the fear response. If it does, continue with the desensitization; if not, you will need to obtain a different recording. For some animals, a recording alone may not work, since there may be a combination of occurrences that provokes fear, e.g.; thunder plus lightning or changes in barometric pressure. For these animals, darkening the room and adding strobe lights may more closely mimic the storm, and may need to be included in the desensitization process. 2.      Play the recording at a volume low enough that the pet is aware of the sound, but it does not induce a fear response. For instance, the ears may be cocked towards the source of the sound, but you still have the pet's attention. In some instances, that may mean the pet needs to be in a different room from where the recording is playing. While the recording is playing at the low level, engage the pet in an activity in which you give the commands, such as obedience training or performing tricks. Give food or other rewards during the activity when the pet accomplishes what he is supposed to. If the animal shows signs of fear, stop and try again the next day, playing the recording at an even lower level. It is important that the pet not be rewarded while he is fearful or anxious. Sessions should last about 20 minutes. 3.      If the animal does not respond fearfully, during the next session, increase the volume slightly. Again, involve the pet in an activity and reward it for obeying commands. Continue increasing the volume gradually for each session. If the pet starts to show fear, decrease the volume. Repeat the sessions in various rooms of the house and with various family members present. 4.      When the pet does not show fear when the recording is played at a loud volume, you may want to try playing the recording for a short time while you are absent. Gradually increase the time you are gone while the recording is playing. 5.      When the pet appears to have lost his fear, the sessions can be reduced to one per week. In most instances, these sessions will need to be repeated weekly for the life of the pet. 6.      During an actual storm, use the same activities and rewards you used in the training sessions. To increase the chances of successful desensitization, the training process should take place during a time of the year when the actual noise will not be encountered: if the pet is afraid of thunder or fireworks, try desensitization during the winter; if afraid of gunshots, the training should take place outside of the hunting season. In most instances, it is best to discontinue any behavior-modifying medications during the desensitization process. Consult with your veterinarian before discontinuing any medications. Conclusion Fear of thunderstorms and other forms of noise phobia are common problems in dogs, and some cats. Administering medications along with changing the pets environment, and using behavior modification techniques can help ease the fear. Above all, do not give your pet any attention or reward when he is showing signs of fear; this will only reinforce the fearful behavior. Copyright Holly Nash, DVM, MS

 

Common Behavior Issues

Behavior Issues and Your Dog

Behavior issues are the main reason dogs are abandoned, given to a shelter, or put to sleep.  Dr. Draper, DVM, PhD, MBA from Iowa State University College of Veterinary Medicine expresses his concern over recent statistics:  42% of veterinarians report behavior problems, 15% of clients' dogs are put to sleep due to behavior issues, over 4 million dog bites occur each year, and in 2004 there were 20 deaths caused by dog bites.  We can reduce the number of needless deaths by educating dog owners, utilizing behavior modification techniques, and training puppies before behavior problems surface.

Studies also show that most dog bites are from pets or other dogs known to the victim.  Children, especially boys between the ages of 5-9, comprise the largest number of dog bite victims.  ANY dog large or small can become a dangerous or a vicious dog.  Actually, more small dogs bite than large dogs, and most bites occur as a fear response not as an aggressive attack. 

35% of a dog's behavior is genetic and 65% is a result of the environment.  The owner is more responsible for the behavior than the breed of the dog.  Improper training techniques, overly harsh corrections, hitting, and/or the lack of socialization increase the incidents of negative behaviors.  The following are some common problems:

Mailman syndrome:  Mailman comes to the door, the dog barks.  The mailman leaves and dog (in his mind) wins the battle.  This event occurs 6 days a week.  If this behavior is not corrected, you have trained your dog to protect your house from the mailman. 

Tug of war games:  The game of tug is usually the first game people like to play with their puppy.  However, tug encourages and reinforces biting and fighting for an object.  Because this is a fun game, a puppy will try to start a game of tug with anything in his reach, which may be a pant leg, a child's blanket, and/or the leash. 

Noise phobia:  A loud noise occurs and the dog whines or shivers.  The owner picks up the dog and says in a soothing voice, "It's okay, it's okay."  If the owner continues to do this when a loud noise occurs, a fear reaction is created and constantly reinforced.  The owner is not protecting the dog.  They are creating anxiety that will generalize to other noises and worsen over time. 

A lack of knowledge about dog behavior and how dogs learn create behavior problems that can be prevented.  Establishing a solid foundation of obedience, early socialization, and becoming aware of how your dog learns will reduce the occurrence of behavior problems in your household.  The principals of learning don't change, but there are specific behavior modification programs and many training techniques that can be used for select behavior issues. 

Reading about dogs, working with a reputable trainer, and patience are keys to preventing future bad behaviors and solving existing behavior problems.  Your dog will be happier when he knows the rules, and you will have a more peaceful household and look forward to many wonderful years with your canine partner. 

Written by Susan Jakobs:  Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, Evaluator and Trainer for Edward Hospital's Animal Assisted Therapy Program, Northwest Community Hospital, Palos Community Hospital, OSF St. Anthony's, Rockford, OSF St. Francis, Peoria.  www.dogbuilders.com

 

 

Should I get another Dog?

Ready for a second dog?

 

Most people want another dog as a companion for their first dog, but be aware that some complications may arise.  If your dog suffers from separation anxiety, a second dog is not the cure as the new dog may develop this problem too.  If your first dog is untrained, the second dog will learn the bad habits faster than good ones.  There is also chance that the pair will develop their own sub-pack and pay less attention to you. 

 

Be prepared to double dog expenses (food, training, grooming, boarding, vet bills), to schedule more time for training and walks, and to pick up more poop.  On the bright side, a new dog can spark new life into an older dog and provide companionship and entertainment for everyone.     

 

Dog selection and pack management are critical for a creating a harmonious dog household.  A good dog leader can handle many dogs, but a poor manager will have trouble with one dog should not get a second.  The tips below will help make your multiple dog household run smoother: 

 

1. Wait until your first dog is mentally and sexually mature (18 months to 3 years).
2. Train your first dog.  She/he will help raise and train a new puppy.
3. Cross sex.  If you have a female, get a male.  If you have a male, you can get a male or a female.  Most people assume that the male rules the pack, but research shows the opposite is true.  Females are willing to fight harder to establish a dominant position.  85% of my dog-to-dog issues deal with pack dissention between females.  You, should hold the leadership role, so no matter how you combine sexes, your dogs will look to you for leadership, not each other. 
4. Avoid getting littermates, because this creates dependency and anxiety issues.  One pup develops normally, but the other becomes overly dependent and when separated, one or both will suffer from severe separation anxiety. 
5. If you get littermates, use 2 crates, train, walk, socialize separately, and give them separate playtime, in addition to the time they spend together.  This will allow them to develop confidence and personalities independent of each other.  This should be done for their first year.
6. Introduce the new dog on neutral territory.  Keep the older dog on a leash initially so you can control his response to a puppy.  Once an older dog has accepted a new puppy, you should be able to let them sort their own relationship out without any interference.  Consult a professional if your older dog will not accept a puppy. 
7. Size does not matter.  An adult, large dog perceives a small dog as a puppy and will be very gentle.  Do don't be afraid to get a small breed, they think they are big. 

 

There are always exceptions to the advice above.  Use logic and do some research before deciding what dog to introduce to your house.  Talk to your Vet, trainer, breeder, or groomer for an insight on the issue. 

 

2008 Written by Susan Jakobs:  Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers.  Visit www.dogbuilders.com.

 

Summer Hazards for Dogs

Summer Hazards for Dogs

 

Midwest weather changes from cold to hot in a second, and we seem to be caught off guard when it comes to our pets.  The heat, bugs, and thunderstorms are just a few of the issues we need to consider to keep our dogs safe during the summer months. 

 

Dogs in Cars – Duh!  Leave your dog at home, not in the car!  On a 70-degree day, the sun will heat the interior of a car to a killer temperature.  It may be fun for a dog to hang his head out of the window, but flying debris is a danger, and dogs should not ride in the back of a pick up. 

Outdoor events – It is great to take your pet to the fair, but leave him at home when it is extremely hot.  When you take your dog, offer water frequently, and rest in the shade.  Avoid hot surfaces like concrete, asphalt, or sand. 

Poisons & Chemicals – A dog or puppy can become seriously ill or die from ingesting fertilizers, herbicides, insecticides, or rodenticides.  Read and follow directions carefully before using anything.  Keep all poisons in a child and dog proof location. 

Mulch – Fresh cocoa bean much can be toxic if a large quantity is ingested.  

Antifreeze – Check for leaks, as a small amount is very toxic.  Its sweet taste attracts animals.  Switch to a product that contains propylene glycol, not ethylene glycol. 

Sunburn – Light dogs and dogs with short hair are at the highest risk of sunburn, but other dogs also can burn on their nose, ears, and belly too.  Sunburn caused sores, infections, hair loss, and skin cancer.  People sun precautions should also apply to dogs.  Use a sunscreen that is non-toxic to dogs.   

Ear infections – Lift your dog's ear and take a whiff, if there is a nasty smell, call your vet. 

Hot Spots – Also known as summer sores or moist eczema; they can erupt very quickly.  

Noise phobias –Unless you know your puppy is fine with loud, sudden noises, don't take him to the fireworks.  If you have neighbors that randomly set off firecrackers, take out your Kong toy and fill it with peanut butter to distract him from the noise.  Eventually, loud noises will mean a nice treat. 

Dogs at large – Do not approach.  Teach children to back away slowly and quietly and find an adult.  Call animal control or the police.

Kids at large –Untrained kids tease dogs through fences.  A dog tied up can't escape from a pack of kids throwing things at him.  Protect your dog, and do not leave him unattended. 

Exercise – avoid strenuous exercise during extreme heat

Heatstroke – watch for intense rapid panting, wide eyes, salivating, staggering, and lethargy.  A lack of water, hot enclosed spaces, high humidity, obesity, age, and a heavy coat will increase the risk for heat stoke.  A dog's normal rectal temperature is 101 to 102.5.  Immediately, call your vet if it is over 102.5! 

Pests – (fleas, tick, flies, bees) Use a Veterinarian approved prevention program. 

Water safety – Dogs can drown.  Supervise dogs around pools and have a life jacket when boating.  Young dogs cannot monitor their stamina and may not make it back to shore. 

Traveling – If you want to take your dog on vacation…plan ahead.  www.petfriendlytravel.com

 

 

Please contact your Veterinarian with any health concerns regarding your pet.  For a detailed list of poisons and toxic plants, visit www.peteducation.com, www.aspca.com, or call Animal Poison Hotline (888-232-8870) 

 

During the summer, frequently check your dog's fur, paws, skin, and ears for ulcers or infection.  Take notice of his eating and bathroom habits.  A sick dog can't tell you what is wrong.  A sick dog will show you when he is sick, but you have to be watching for these signals.  Have a safe summer.

 

 

 

2008 Written by Susan Jakobs:  Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers.  Visit www.dogbuilders.com.

Puppy Biting

Puppy Biting

 

Puppy teeth are razor sharp and the teething stage is painful—for everyone.  Puppies should have their adult teeth by 7 months; biting after 8 months is protest biting or a learned behavior.  Research shows that a major contributor to excessive puppy biting is early adoption (before 8 weeks).  The Illinois Animal Control Act 605/2.2 states that the mother and her puppies must remain together until the age of 8 weeks.  

 

A puppy learns bite inhibition from his mother and littermates.  If a pup bites too hard or is too bossy, the other pups will let him know very quickly.  These lessons sound violent, but they are crucial for proper development.  Although puppies learn restraint better from their peers, the hints below should help:   

 

1. Redirection – offer proper toys to chew.  No old socks or shoes.  A puppy cannot tell the difference between new and old.  Avoid items that are easily destroyed.  
2. If your puppy bites while you are petting, quietly remove your attention from him.  This has to be done many times before the pup realizes he is being ignored.  Once he relaxes, pet him again, etcetera. 
3. Use positive reinforcement ("good dog") when your puppy chews the right toy and say "no", when he selects the wrong object.  Always offer the right option to reinforce what you want. 
4. Use a chewing deterrent (Grannick's Apple Bitter).  First, give your pup a taste of it several times for a few days to create a negative association between the bad taste and the bad smell.  Then spray it on your hands, furniture, or the leash to deter the biting.       
5. No tug of war or slapping games. 
6. When your puppy is in a rowdy, biting mood, use the crate for a "positive" time out. 
7. Set up a play dates with other puppies. 
8. Teach your puppy how to accept touch (brushing, nail trim, teeth brushing).
9. When your puppy bites, scream "OW!" in a high-pitched voice. Then ignore him. 
10. If your puppy doesn't get the message, use a leash correction or a little scruff and scold him in a low-toned voice (sound evil). Never grab, strike, or pinch his nose as this will make your puppy not trust hands.  

 

Puppies that won't stop or get wilder after a correction have a strong defense response and will continue to snap or snarl.  Advanced "scruff" or a "restraint" methods work for this type of dog, BUT proper timing and delivery are vital for these exercises.  It is important to remain calm and quiet while working with this type of puppy.  Poor training will make the problem worse and you may be bit. 

 

Consult a professional before attempting any method that is unknown to you.  Once a dog is over the teething state (3-5 months), he should not be mouthy or biting.  Don't make excuses for your bad behavior, get help. 

 

2008 Written by Susan Jakobs:  Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers.  Visit www.dogbuilders.com or www.midwestcanineacademy.com  or call 815-590-8008

 

The Higher Mind of Dogs

Use psychology to control a dominant dog

 

Dogs are programmed to compete for food, objects, space, and pack position.  A dog with a docile personality will fit into a household without a problem, but a dog with a dominant personality will challenge, and manipulate the humans that do not demonstrate leadership qualities.  The owner that doesn't recognize this may inadvertently create or reinforce dominant behaviors.  A dominant dog will not 'outgrow' a dominant personality and their bad behaviors tend to escalate over time.

 

If your dog exhibits any of the following BOSSY behaviors, you need to make a change.  Nudge for attention, bark to manipulate, bite when groomed, protect space with a bite or growl, ignore commands, not come when called, steal or hoard objects, protect items or food, not release a toy, growl for control, urinate on you or personal items, and pulls on the leash. 

 

Common mistakes:  letting your dog push past you in doorways or on stairs, treating your dog like a baby, carrying your dog like a purse, not socializing, not training, bribing with too many treats, not fixing the growls, bites, and barks, letting them drag you on a walk, allowing them on the furniture, giving too much attention for doing nothing, inconsistent training, trying to train without a leash, overall lack of structure, management and supervision. 

 

What can I do to change?

           

Adopt the rule that your dog has to EARN attention and food.  Train your dog earn his meal by having him sit and wait for it.  Ignore him when he pushes your hand for attention.  Reward your dog ONLY WHEN you get what you want. 

 

Over time, this method changes your dog from the bossy one to the willing one.  Your dog will learn that he will have to obey you to get what he wants!  You gain control by setting the rules and by controlling each situation.  

 

Methods that increase your leadership role:  teach your dog to sit at (not blast through) the door and allow YOU walk through first, learn how to lead the walk, make his sit to put on the leash, wipe paws, or for grooming, make the entire family participate with training, teach commands like "leave it," "quiet," "no bite," expose them to new places, enroll in a group class to practice your obedience skills with distractions, teach your dog how to be alone, train tricks and have fun with tour dog to increase trust and strengthen the bond.

 

The owner that understands how to 'out think their dog' will build a dog that adjusts to our social expectations more willingly.  If your dog is territorial, dog aggressive, possession aggressive, or food aggressive an additional behavior plan may need to be implemented.  Consult  a professional to work with you regarding these issues.  

 

 

2008 Written by Susan Jakobs:  Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers.  Visit www.dogbuilders.com or www.midwestcanineacademy.com  or call 815-590-8008

 

 

The Importance of Puppy Socialization

The Importance of Puppy Socialization

 

This series discusses how valuable socialization is for normal development and what you can do to help.  A properly socialized puppy is happy and content.  A well-balanced puppy will accept new places, noises, and people and other dogs with confidence.  An unsocialized dog exhibits fear and/or aggression toward people, other dogs, and any new situation.  The number one reason why dogs are euthanized is due to a lack of socialization during critical phases.  

 

The most crucial time in a puppy's development is during the first 16 weeks of life; the social exposure during this time affects how he relates to people and the world around him.  The puppy's mother, littermates, breeder, and new owners are responsible for properly socializing a puppy during different phases of development.  If you miss your window of opportunity, you cannot go back and make it up. 

 

Your pup's temperament and behavior traits develop during this time and any experiences he has will affect him for the rest of his life.  Positive social exposure has a bigger influence over behavior than breed characteristics.  Furthermore, a negative experience can emotionally scar the puppy (an aggressive dog attacks a puppy while in its fear stage will create a dog aggression issue for the puppy).  It is important for new owners to learn the developmental stages and when to expose the puppy to the world.   

 

The first 'social' lesson learned from his mother is how to keep the den clean.  For the first 3-4 weeks of life, the mother controls elimination by consuming their excrement, which is how they learn how to keep their den/crate clean.  Around 5 weeks, puppies are weaned and their mother stops cleaning up after them.  The breeder steps in to further reinforce keeping the den clean by using a substrate different from the bedding material (sawdust or newspaper).  Then, after mealtime, the puppies will run from the source of food to the elimination area. 

 

The puppy's mother is also the first to issue discipline.  Littermates teach social lessons like how to control the strength of their bite, how to vocalize, and how to interpret dog body language.  Puppies take turns being dominant and submissive.  They learn how to play bow, share space and food, and most importantly, where they fit into the pack. 

Ideally, a litter of puppies is kept together until they are 8 weeks old, because the lessons learned from their mother and siblings are crucial.  A good breeder will execute some form of puppy-raising program to enhance development.  The most renowned guide to help stimulate and enrich early neurological development is "Developing High Achievers" by Dr. Carmen Battaglia.  Google "Super Dog Program" for the entire article.  

Experts say that the best time for a puppy to learn proper social skills is between 4 and 16 weeks of age.  Life lessons taught by the mother and littermates build the foundation for acceptable behavior.  The breeder reinforces those canine rules, introduces human manners, and provides stimulus to enrich their environment (new sights, sounds, smells, tastes, and touch).  Breeders that follow enrichment programs produce puppies that are well balanced and ready for the family.  Puppies removed from the litter too early tend to be nervous, prone to barking and biting, and less responsive to training.     

The new owner is responsible for continuing enrichment exercises and to familiarize the puppy to their lifestyle.  Read puppy-raising books to become knowledgeable about growth stages and how to train skills like housebreaking, crate training, teaching respect, establishing leadership, and basic obedience.  Enroll in a group puppy class by the age of 14 weeks; your trainer should offer a training program that reflects the needs of the puppy and the ability of the owner.

Dr. Carmen Battaglia created the Rule of 7's as a guide to increase a puppy's exposure.  You do not have to follow it to the letter, but make sure your puppy is current on all shots before taking him out into a strange area.  By the time a puppy is 3 months, make sure he has:

1. Been on 7 different types of surfaces:  carpet, tile, linoleum, concrete, wood, vinyl, grass, dirt, gravel, and wood chips.
2. Played with 7 different types of objects:  rope toys, plush toys, big balls, small balls, soft fabric toys, squeaky toys, paper or cardboard items, metal items, and sticks.
3. Been in 7 different locations:  front & back yard, basement, kitchen, car, garage, laundry room, bathroom, kids room, living room, hallway, Vet's office, groomers.
4. Met and played with 7 new people:  include children and older adults, someone walking with a cane or in a wheelchair or walker, someone tall, someone in a hat.
5. Been exposed to 7 challenges:  climb on a box, go through a tunnel, climb steps, go down steps, climb over obstacles, play hide and seek, go in and out of a doorway with a step up or down, run around a fence.
6. Eaten from 7 different containers:  metal, plastic, cardboard, paper, human hands, pie plate, tin pan, frying pan, Frisbee, elevated bowl.
7. Eaten in 7 different locations:  crate, yard, exercise pen, basement, laundry room, living room, bathroom, back yard.

Each new, positive experience will help your puppy flourish into a confident companion.  Allow your puppy to learn passively by letting them to explore on their own, but make sure he is 100% supervised and that it is a controlled environment.  Do not use any harsh training methods with a puppy, because you will break the bond of trust.  Training should be fair and fun.  

2008 Written by Susan Jakobs:  Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers.  Visit www.dogbuilders.com or www.midwestcanineacademy.com  or call 815-590-8008

 

Having a Baby?

My husband and I are expecting our first baby, what can I do to help my dog adjust?

 

I think it is a great idea to practice on a dog before committing to a baby.  If you have raised your dog properly, introducing a baby will be easy.  If you have spoiled your dog, you will have some challenges. 

 

Changing the family pack dynamic by having a baby, moving, getting another dog, the death of a person or animal, or divorce can be upsetting to your pet.  Make the following adjustments early to help your dog accept your new baby in a positive way.   

 

1. Get your dog out of your bed and off the couch and do it soon.  The reason for this will become evident when your 80-pound lab jumps on the bed and lands on your 7-pound newborn. 
2. Practice obedience and manners
1. No jumping, nipping, barking (waking a baby makes mom crabby) 
2. Sit, stay, and down commands are mandatory
3. No pawing (dogs that use their paws to get attention will scratch delicate skin)
4. A "leave it" command is crucial (dogs like baby toys and diapers)
5. Place a baby blanket on the floor -- train your dog to stay off of it
3. Observe your dog around children
1. Does he startle to new sounds easily? (graduated exposure will reduce this behavior)
2. Train large dogs to 'down' when children approach
3. Seek professional help if your dog growls, nips, or seems uncomfortable around children
4. Put lotion on your new baby equipment and allow your dog to investigate
5. Turn on the new baby gadgets so your dog becomes familiar with the noise.  Some people play tapes of babies crying.
6. Role play with a doll and make the actions part of your routine
1. Practice walking your dog with the stroller
2. Use the baby carrier
3. Place the doll in the high chair, crib, and on the changing table
7. Create an emergency pet care plan for a nighttime delivery
8. After your baby is born, have your husband bring home a blanket with your new baby's smell and allow your dog to sniff.
9. The first month with a newborn is exhausting.  Try to fit in some solo time with your dog or hire a dog walker to help your pet release some energy.
10. Warning:  Your dog will love the taste of baby vomit and dirty diapers.

 

 

Written by Susan Jakobs:  Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, Director of Professional Service Dogs, Inc.,  Visit www.dogbuilders.com.

 

Puppy Biting

Puppy Biting

 

Puppy teeth are razor sharp and the teething stage is painful—for everyone.  Puppies should have their adult teeth by 7 months; biting after 8 months is protest biting or a learned behavior.  Research shows that a major contributor to excessive puppy biting is early adoption (before 8 weeks).  The Illinois Animal Control Act 605/2.2 states that the mother and her puppies must remain together until the age of 8 weeks.  

 

A puppy learns bite inhibition from his mother and littermates.  If a pup bites too hard or is too bossy, the other pups will let him know very quickly.  These lessons sound violent, but they are crucial for proper development.  Although puppies learn restraint better from their peers, the hints below should help:   

 

1. Redirection – offer proper toys to chew.  No old socks or shoes.  A puppy cannot tell the difference between new and old.  Avoid items that are easily destroyed.   Bored puppies get into trouble. 
2. If your puppy bites while you are petting, quietly remove your attention from him.  This has to be done many times before the pup realizes he is being ignored.  Once he relaxes, pet him again, etcetera. 
3. Use positive reinforcement ("good dog") when your puppy chews the right toy and say "no", when he selects the wrong object.  Always offer the right option to reinforce what you want. 
4. Use a chewing deterrent (Grannick's Apple Bitter).  First, give your pup a taste of it several times for a few days to create a negative association between the bad taste and the bad smell.  Then spray it on your hands, furniture, or the leash to deter the biting.       
5. No tug of war or slapping games. 
6. When your puppy is in a rowdy, biting mood, use the crate for a "positive" time out.  Give him a safe chew toy to alleviate boredom. 
7. Set up a play dates with other puppies. 
8. Teach your puppy how to accept touch (brushing, nail trim, teeth brushing).
9. When your puppy bites, scream "OW!" in a high-pitched voice. Then ignore him. 
10. If your puppy doesn't get the message, use a leash correction or a little scruff and scold him in a low-toned voice (sound evil). Never grab, strike, or pinch his nose as this will make your puppy not trust hands.  

 

Puppies that won't stop or get wilder after a correction have a strong defense response and will continue to snap or snarl.  Advanced "scruff" or a "restraint" methods work for this type of dog, BUT proper timing and delivery are vital for these exercises.  It is important to remain calm and quiet while working with this type of puppy.  Poor training will make the problem worse and you may be bit. 

 

Consult a professional before attempting any method that is unknown to you.  Once a dog is over the teething state (3-5 months), he should not be mouthy or biting.  Don't make excuses for your bad behavior, get help. 

 

2008 Written by Susan Jakobs:  Owner of Midwest Canine Academy, Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers.  Visit www.dogbuilders.com or www.midwestcanineacademy.com  or call 815-590-8008