Housetraining

HOUSE TRAINING- USING LOGIC

House training your puppy/dog does not have to be an unpleasant experience. Understanding what basic principles apply and why things work will reduce frustration and increase success.

1. Be realistic about the length of time your dog can control his bowel or bladder. Base this expectation on age and physical ability. A younger dog cannot control his bodily functions for the same amount of time as a more mature dog. A reasonable amount of time can be calculated by adding one hour to your pup's age in months (i.e., a healthy 2-month old should be able hold it for 3 hours etc.). Expecting more is not fair.

2. A sick dog may have accidents unwillingly. Rule out worms or a bladder infection. A visit to the vet is always recommended.

3. Define their bed or den. Wild dogs sleep in a den and domestic dogs sleep in a crate. The average puppy/dog that is mentally and physically sound will not soil in their bed as long as they have opportunity to do it outside. We utilize a crate to mimic our dog's natural instinct to den. Some people think using a crate is horrible, but in reality, the crate becomes their own personal space within your home where they feel safe.

4. Supervision. You MUST eliminate or at least MINIMIZE the opportunity for your dog to soil in your house. Your dog should never be unsupervised until he understands the rules. It is our job as the pack leader to teach our puppy/dog these rules.

5. A puppy's world is relative to his size. If a puppy's crate is too big, he may soil in it. A puppy should just be able to stand up and turn around in their crate. If you selected a large breed, you will have to buy or borrow many sizes as they grow.

The #1 tool for house training is a crate, portable kennel, or puppy carrier. We prefer plastic crates as they are more durable and dogs are less likely to escape. Some people may choose to use papers, pads, or a litter box. This works well for people who live in a high rise, or have dogs with sever allergies. However, starting with puppy pads then switching over to a crate adds an unnecessary step and will delay housetraining.

Why does a crate work? For the first 3-4 weeks of life, puppies nurse and their mother keeps the den clean by consuming their excrement. It may sound gross, but that is how puppies learn how to keep their den/crate clean. At 5 weeks or so, the puppies are weaned and their mother stops cleaning up after them. When this happens, the breeder takes over to further reinforce how to keep a den clean using a substrate different from the bedding material (sawdust or newspaper).

Using a crate also makes correcting undesirable behavior easier. To correct whining or barking in the crate, place the crate near the door in another room. Place the kennel door away from the direction that you will be approaching. If your puppy starts to fuss when you leave the area, approach from the around the corner to rear of the crate (so the puppy does NOT see you or hear you) and rap the top of the crate. Rap the crate hard enough to make a noise and to startle. Do not verbalize. This will re-direct the unwanted behavior and the puppy will associate the bad behavior (whining) with a bad result (rap on the crate). Do this until the behavior stops, then wait a few minutes and pleasantly take the puppy out. The puppy never associates the correction to us if done correctly. Do not use this technique when you know your puppy has to potty, as it would be unfair.

One client did not want to use the crate, because she thought it was cruel. When she left her house, she gave the dog free reign of the house. Every time she returned home, something was destroyed and/or the dog had soiled. Upon arriving home and finding the messes, she scolded the dog. Over time, the arrival of the master was no longer a positive experience for either. The dog began to interpret the owner's arrival home as a time for correction, and the owner was met at the door by a dog whose tail was down and acting depressed instead of a warm friendly greeting.

We introduced the crate and took away the dog's opportunity to do damage. Upon arriving home, the dog was happy to see his master, and the owner was happy to have her house intact. No more messes. No more scolding. It took several weeks to reverse the negativity of the owner's arrival home. In time, the dog looked forward to the owner's arrival home and the owner was thrilled to have her house intact. Both are much happier, and all it took was proper use of the crate.

As trainers, we encounter many events where dogs have destroyed furniture, cabinets, and carpeting. One client allowed their dog to destroy their newly renovated basement. A fifty dollar crate could have saved them frustration and about $5,000. Using a crate will also keep our dogs safe. It will keep them out of dangerous household items like poisons.

The Basics for using a Crate

1. Introduce you pup/dog to his new crate by using treats and praise. Have a calm and positive attitude when placing him into the crate and give him a treat once he has relaxed. A safe and positive environment for your puppy will speed up training.
2. Puppy/dog goes from the crate directly outside to potty. Make sure all family members are consistent with the CRATE to OUTSIDE routine.
3. Teach a potty command like 'go potty' or 'hurry up.' Allow him a reasonable amount of time to complete ALL of his business. Once the mission is complete, give lots of praise so that he knows he did a good job. Use treats intermittently, because we have had dogs 'pretend' to potty for a treat!
4. If puppy/dog does not potty in a reasonable amount of time, put him back into the crate. Try again a short time later (15-20 minutes).
5. Once puppy/dog has completely eliminated, then and only then, it can be loose in the house with 100% supervision. If or when you do not have time to supervise your puppy/dog then put him in the crate.
6. Your pet earns more play space and time as he develops bladder control. Puppies will always have accidents, and it is always the owner's fault. They have not learned the rules yet.
7. The ONLY time you can correct a dog for an accident is when you catch him in the act. Rubbing your dog's nose in it or making him sit by the mess does not teach them anything. Use the pennies in the can trick or yell 'no' when you catch them.

When you teach your puppy where and when you want them to potty, there are no negatives, just positive reinforcement. Consider the crate your puppy's new home within your home. This training tool may be needed for over a year for a puppy. It may take an adult dog only 3-6 weeks of training. You now understand how to eliminate the opportunity for your puppy to soil in your home or damage property.

You will know when your puppy/dog is becoming housetrained when you are playing and he stops what he is doing and goes to the door requesting to be let out. WHEN THIS HAPPENS CONSISTENTLY, NOT JUST ONCE OR TWICE, it is an indication that your puppy/dog understands what you want. As your puppy/dog becomes more consistent, he earns more freedom. DON'T RUSH IT.

Copyright 2006 by Susan Jakobs. This article or any part of this article may not be reproduced in any form or circulated without author’s permission. We post articles to educate the public and would allow the use of printed materials for that purpose. If you want to use any publications, you must contact us first. Materials cannot be edited or changed and must be used in whole, including our logo.

Dr. R. K. Anderson's Socialization Letter

Robert K. Anderson DVM
Diplomate ACVB and ACVPM
Professor and Director Emeritus, Animal Behavior Clinic and
Center to Study Human/Animal Relationships and Environments
University of Minnesota
1666 Coffman Street, Suite 128, Falcon Heights, MN 55108
Phone 612-644-7400
FAX 612-644-4262

Puppy Vaccination and Socialization Should Go Together

TO: My Colleagues in Veterinary Medicine:

Common questions I receive from puppy owners, dog trainers and veterinarians concern: 1) what is the most favorable age or period of time when puppies learn best? 2) what are the health implications of my advice that veterinarians and trainers should offer socialization programs for puppies starting at 8 to 9 weeks of age.

Puppies begin learning at birth and their brains appear to be particularly responsive to learning and retaining experiences that are encountered during the first 13 to 16 weeks after birth. This means that breeders, new puppy owners, veterinarians, trainers and behaviorists have a responsibility to assist in providing these learning/socialization experiences with other puppies/dogs, with children/adults and with various environmental situations during this optimal period from birth to 16 weeks.

Experience and epidemiologic data support the relative safety and lack of transmission of disease in these puppy socialization classes over the past 10 years in many parts of the United States.

Many veterinarians are making this early socialization and learning program part of a total wellness plan for breeders and new owners of puppies during the first 16 weeks of a puppy's life -- the first 7-8 weeks with the breeder and the next 8 weeks with the new owners. This socialization program should enroll puppies from 8 to 12 weeks of age as a key part of any preventive medicine program to improve the bond between pets and their people and keep dogs as valued members of the family for 12 to 18 years.

To take full advantage of this early special learning period, many veterinarians recommend that new owners take their puppies to puppy socialization classes, beginning at 8 to 9 weeks of age. At this age they should have (and can be required to have) received a minimum of their first series of vaccines for protection against infectious diseases. This provides the basis for increasing immunity by further repeated exposure to these antigens either through natural exposure in small doses or artificial exposure with vaccines during the next 8 to 12 weeks. In addition the owner and people offering puppy socialization should take precautions to have the environment and the participating puppies as free of natural exposure as possible by good hygiene and caring by careful instructors and owners.

Experience and epidemiologic data support the relative safety and lack of transmission of disease in these puppy socialization classes over the past 10 years in many parts of the United States. In fact; the risk of a dog dying because of infection with distemper or parvo disease is far less than the much higher risk of a dog dying (euthanasia) because of a behavior problem. Many veterinarians are now offering new puppy owners puppy socialization classes in their hospitals or nearby training facilities in conjunction with trainers and behaviorists because they want socialization and training to be very important parts of a wellness plan for every puppy. We need to recognize that this special sensitive period for learning is the best opportunity we have to influence behavior for dogs and the most important and longest lasting part of a total wellness plan.

Are there risks? Yes. But 10 years of good experience and data, with few exceptions, offers veterinarians the opportunity to generally recommend early socialization and training classes, beginning when puppies are 8 to 9 weeks of age. However, we always follow a veterinarian's professional judgment, in individual cases or situations, where special circumstances warrant further immunization for a special puppy before starting such classes. During any period of delay for puppy classes, owners should begin a program of socialization with children and adults, outside their family, to take advantage of this special period in a puppy's life.

If there are further questions, veterinarians may call me at 651-644-7400 for discussion and clarification.

Robert K. Anderson DVM, Diplomate, American College of Veterinary Preventive Medicine and Diplomate of American College of Veterinary Behaviorists

Distributed by Susan Jakobs at 1-815-590-8008

www.dogbuilders.com            www.midwestcanineacademy.com

How often should I bathe my dog?

How often should I bathe my dog?

This depends on your dog's breed, your lifestyle, and the season. A dog can have a double coat, silky coat, curly coat, smooth coat, wiry coat, or a mixed blend. Be aware of any skin allergies and learn what your dog's coat requires. A Smooth coat requires less work than a double coat. If you are unsure, ask your breeder, groomer, or Veterinarian.

Some people rarely bathe their dogs, and some people bathe them weekly. Do what works for you and your budget. I chose low coat maintenance dogs, because they fit into my lifestyle. Make sure to use shampoo made for dogs' coat type and try not to bathe too often.

It is also good idea to expose your puppy to baths and your groomer by the time they are 12 weeks old to avoid making it a traumatic experience when they are older. If you have difficulty with this, work with a professional before it comes a big problem.

Copyright 2006 by Susan Jakobs. This article or any part of this article may not be reproduced in any form or circulated without author’s permission. We post articles to educate the public and would allow the use of printed materials for that purpose. If you want to use any publications, you must contact us first. Materials cannot be edited or changed and must be used in whole, including our logo.

Why does my dog roll in smelly things?

Why does my dog like to roll in smelly things, especially after a bath?

Many dog owners are surprised when nice trip to the park ends in a smelly car ride home. Dogs evolved from wolves over 15,000 years ago, and their DNA make up is almost identical. Many innate behaviors, like 'rolling.' relate to skills that were necessary for hunting.

Your dog's instinct is to mask his own scent with the odor of the environment so he won't be detected by his prey. Some behaviorists state that dogs roll in things to communicate what they have found to other dogs and to mark the territory with their own smell.

Regardless of the reason, when your dog rolls in animal feces or in dirt after a bath, it's unpleasant. However, it's also unfair to punish your dog for following his instinct. If you have a dog that likes to roll, you can manage the behavior with training.

First, identify your dog's pre-rolling activity (some circle then dive in, others smell intently then dive in). When he starts to perform the pre-roll routine, call him off with a command like 'off, 'no sniff,' or 'no' and back away from the odor using the leash to control him.

You are teaching him to retreat from a smell with a verbal command and controlling the action with the leash. Do this many times so he understands what you mean and then practice this retreating action. With practice, your dog will learn how to retreat from the smell by your command.

The desire to roll in smelling things is not present in all dogs. Some dogs refuse to step on wet pavement or grass, and some dogs prance around after a bath. Unfortunately, most dogs like to eat, lick, and roll in things that we find disgusting.

A few canine favorites include: decayed carcasses, dirty diapers, dog butt, dog poo, and animal urine. Rabbit and cat poo are delicacies and are on the top of the list. Knowing this, you may want to think twice before letting your dog lick your face when he comes in from a walk.

Copyright 2006 by Susan Jakobs. This article or any part of this article may not be reproduced in any form or circulated without author’s permission. We post articles to educate the public and would allow the use of printed materials for that purpose. If you want to use any publications, you must contact us first. Materials cannot be edited or changed and must beused in whole, including our logo.